Not currently on display at the V&A

Costume Design

1954 (designed)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Oliver Messel (1904-1978) was Britain’s leading theatre designer throughout the 1930s, ‘40s and ‘50s, mastering every aspect of entertainment - ballet, drama, film, musical, opera and revue - as well working in interior decoration and textile design. His lavish, painterly and romantic concepts were perfectly in tune with the times and earned him an international reputation. By 1960, however, that style was becoming unfashionable, and Messel gradually abandoned theatre and built a new career designing luxury homes in the Caribbean.

Rossini’s opera The Barber of Seville (1816) is based on a comedy (1775) by Beaumarchais (1732-1799). Count Almaviva is in love with Rosina, Dr. Bartolo’s beautiful ward. With the aid of Figaro, a mischievous and clever barber, he seeks to release Rosina from Dr. Bartolo’s clutches. Messel designed costumes and sets for a Glyndebourne production in 1954, which despite its popularity, was only revived twice.

Rosina, the beautiful and wealthy ward of Dr. Bartolo, falls in love with Count Almaviva. Messel designed a long Spanish style skirt, consisting of a white underskirt covered with a black net layer, embellished with a pink overskirt and yellow trim, suggested by a few painterly brushstrokes.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Charcoal, pencil, gouache, paint, watercolour on paper
Brief description
Costume design by Oliver Messel for Rosina in Act I of Rossini's opera Il Barbiere di Siviglia (The Barber of Seville), Glyndebourne 1954.
Physical description
A costume design for Rosina in Il Barbiere di Siviglia, 1954. Full-length female figure wearing a grey ankle-length dress, the bodice and skirt in grey with black and white decoration, the overskirt in pink with lace.trimming.
Dimensions
  • Height: 37.8cm
  • Width: 25.1cm
Production typeDesign
Marks and inscriptions
  • 'Oliver Messel' (Artist's signature in pencil on the bottom right-hand corner on the front of the sheet)
  • 'Rosina act I' (Pencil inscription, top right hand corner.)
Credit line
Acquired with the support of the National Lottery Heritage Fund, Art Fund and the Friends of the V&A
Object history
Il Barbiere di Siviglia (The Barber of Seville), an opera (1816) in two acts, was composed by Rossini with libretto by Sterbini after Beaumarchais’s comedy of the same name (1775). Oliver Messel’s production was first performed by the Glyndebourne Festival Opera at Glyndebourne on 10 June, 1954; directed by Carl Ebert, featuring Bruscantini as Figaro and Graziella Sciutti as Rosina. It was revived at the Edinburgh Festival in 1955 and at Glyndebourne in 1961. Roger Pinkham has said of this production that “Messel chose a palette which echoed the contrasted and thus dramatic coloration of Goya’s paintings.” (Pinkham, ed., 1983).
Lord Snowdon, Oliver Messel's nephew, inherited Messel's theatre designs and other designs and artefacts. The designs were briefly stored in a disused chapel in Kensington Palace before being housed at the V&A from 1981 on indefinite loan. The V&A Theatre Museum purchased the Oliver Messel collection from Lord Snowdon in 2005.

Historical significance: Messel worked for Glyndebourne from 1951 to 1959, when he was at the height of his popularity as a designer for the stage. His work for Glyndebourne in this period is regarded as some of his best designs.
Production
Reason For Production: Commission
Summary
Oliver Messel (1904-1978) was Britain’s leading theatre designer throughout the 1930s, ‘40s and ‘50s, mastering every aspect of entertainment - ballet, drama, film, musical, opera and revue - as well working in interior decoration and textile design. His lavish, painterly and romantic concepts were perfectly in tune with the times and earned him an international reputation. By 1960, however, that style was becoming unfashionable, and Messel gradually abandoned theatre and built a new career designing luxury homes in the Caribbean.

Rossini’s opera The Barber of Seville (1816) is based on a comedy (1775) by Beaumarchais (1732-1799). Count Almaviva is in love with Rosina, Dr. Bartolo’s beautiful ward. With the aid of Figaro, a mischievous and clever barber, he seeks to release Rosina from Dr. Bartolo’s clutches. Messel designed costumes and sets for a Glyndebourne production in 1954, which despite its popularity, was only revived twice.

Rosina, the beautiful and wealthy ward of Dr. Bartolo, falls in love with Count Almaviva. Messel designed a long Spanish style skirt, consisting of a white underskirt covered with a black net layer, embellished with a pink overskirt and yellow trim, suggested by a few painterly brushstrokes.
Bibliographic reference
Pinkham, Roger (ed.) Oliver Messel, London, V&A, 1983
Other number
ROT 223 - TM Rotation Number
Collection
Accession number
S.40-2006

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Record createdMay 8, 2006
Record URL
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