René Lalique was Art Nouveau's most important jeweller. He developed a new stylistic language based on sinuous interpretations of natural forms, and championed non-precious materials such as enamel, glass and horn. The resulting pieces were both dramatic and ethereal, and had a profound influence on other jewellers who went on to work in the Art Nouveau style.

Lalique underwent a conventional apprenticeship and later attended art school in England before working as a designer for well-known Parisian jewellery firms. During the 1890s he undertook an exhaustive programme of technical research into glass and enamel which led to his distinctive jewellery style. This brooch is an example of his inventive approach to these mediums. It draws strongly upon Japanese design, which was an important influence on Art Nouveau.