Elegant mantles such as this fanned out over the back of the skirt displaying the new bustle shape of the mid 1880s to perfection. They were know as dolmans and were characterised by loose sling-like sleeves cut with the body of the garment so that they resembled half-jacket, half-cape. Dolmans became popular for outdoor wear in the 1870s as their semi-fitted style revealed the shapely contours of the fashionable silhouette. When made of heavier materials such as velvet or fur, they proved ideal for spring or early autumn wear as they were less restricting and cumbersome than a coat. Often worn with a muff, dolmans were also loaded with trimmings, including feathers, ribbons and passementerie.

In this example, padded velvet balls are suspended from knotted silk cords to emphasise the backward projection of the skirt and to trim the ribbon bow fastened at the neck. Crimson balls are also attached along the tapered ends hanging down at the front, which were another typical feature of this style, helping to balance the design.

This dolman was worn by Minnie Fisher, the grandmother of the donor, who was born in 1870 at the Old Rectory, Bathhampton, Bath. Minnie studied at Gloucester School of Art where she won a “South Kensington prize” for still-life painting. She died in 1963.