Ring thumbnail 1
Ring thumbnail 2
Image of Gallery in South Kensington
On display at V&A South Kensington
Jewellery, Rooms 91, The William and Judith Bollinger Gallery

Ring

1300-1400 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

During the Middle Ages, gemstones were most often set as polished but unfaceted cabochons and were chosen for their magical or medicinal properties as much as their aesthetic appeal. Sapphires were highly valued for their heavenly blue colour and supposed magical qualities. They were believed to cool the body, soothe headaches and ulcers, and cure stammers.

This ring was said to have been found in the tomb of a French bishop. From the 12th century, bishops were given rings as part of their consecration service as a symbol of commitment to the Church. Rings found in bishops' tombs suggest that sapphires were particularly favoured.

This ring forms part of a collection of 760 rings and engraved gems from the collection of Edmund Waterton (1830-87). Waterton was one of the foremost ring collectors of the nineteenth century and was the author of several articles on rings, a book on English devotion to the Virgin Mary and an unfinished catalogue of his collection (the manuscript is now the National Art Library). Waterton was noted for his extravagance and financial troubles caused him to place his collection in pawn with the London jeweller Robert Phillips. When he was unable to repay the loan, Phillips offered to sell the collection to the Museum and it was acquired in 1871. A small group of rings which Waterton had held back were acquired in 1899.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Gold set with a sapphire and garnet
Brief description
Gold ring with flower-shaped bezel set with a sapphire and a garnet, Western Europe, 1300-1400.
Physical description
Gold ring, the chased flower-shaped bezel set with a sapphire. The shoulders having settings for stones, one holding a garnet, the other empty
Dimensions
  • Height: 2.7cm
  • Width: 2.6cm
  • Depth: 2.1cm
Object history
Ex Waterton Collection. An episcopal ring, said by Waterton to have been found in the tomb of a French bishop and presented to him by Robert Curzon.
Subject depicted
Summary
During the Middle Ages, gemstones were most often set as polished but unfaceted cabochons and were chosen for their magical or medicinal properties as much as their aesthetic appeal. Sapphires were highly valued for their heavenly blue colour and supposed magical qualities. They were believed to cool the body, soothe headaches and ulcers, and cure stammers.

This ring was said to have been found in the tomb of a French bishop. From the 12th century, bishops were given rings as part of their consecration service as a symbol of commitment to the Church. Rings found in bishops' tombs suggest that sapphires were particularly favoured.

This ring forms part of a collection of 760 rings and engraved gems from the collection of Edmund Waterton (1830-87). Waterton was one of the foremost ring collectors of the nineteenth century and was the author of several articles on rings, a book on English devotion to the Virgin Mary and an unfinished catalogue of his collection (the manuscript is now the National Art Library). Waterton was noted for his extravagance and financial troubles caused him to place his collection in pawn with the London jeweller Robert Phillips. When he was unable to repay the loan, Phillips offered to sell the collection to the Museum and it was acquired in 1871. A small group of rings which Waterton had held back were acquired in 1899.
Bibliographic references
  • Ward, Anne; Cherry, John; Gere, Charlotte; Cartlidge, Barbara, The Ring, London, 1981, p.71, cat. 150
  • Waterton, Edmund Dactyliotheca Watertoniana: a descriptive catalogue of the finger-rings in the collection of Mrs Waterton, (manuscript, 1866, now in National Art Library), cat. 4
  • Bury, Shirley, Jewellery Gallery Summary Catalogue (Victoria and Albert Museum, 1982), 32/J/30
  • Oman, Charles, Catalogue of rings in the Victoria and Albert Museum, London, 1930, reprinted Ipswich, 1993, p. 68, cat. 261
Collection
Accession number
90-1899

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Record createdMarch 14, 2006
Record URL
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