Kimono, red figured silk satin with embroidered and tie-dyed (shibori) decoration of butterflies and orange blossoms, Japan, Edo period, 1800-1850

Kosode (kimono with small sleeve openings) of red and white figured satin (rinzu). The rinzu has a self-pattern of small diapers and flowers. The all-over design consists of fruiting branches of oranges (tachibana) and paper gift ornaments in the shape of butterflies. Some of the oranges are stitch reserved in white against the red ground while others are executed in gold laid work couched with red silk stitches. The leaves are embroidered in satin stitch in two shades of green untwisted silk. The stems are likewise embroidered in black although the iron content of the dye has rotted the embroidery silk, leaving the painted design showing. The butterflies are reserved in white tie-dye (shibori), sometimes the outline only is picked out in the technique and sometimes the entire design is filled with shibori. The garment is lined with scarlet plain weave thin silk and the cuffs have a facing of red crêpe. There is a small wadded hem.

Purchased. Registered File number 1982/1022.

On this kimono, embroidered orange blossoms (tachibana) have been combined with paper ornaments in the shape of butterflies created using the shibori, or tie-dyeing, technique. Sometimes the entire motif is in shibori, sometimes just the outline. The two variations represent male and female butterflies. Such paper ornaments were wrapped around the mouths of sake bottles used at wedding receptions, symbolizing the harmony of the newly married couple. The auspicious design and the red colour of this kimono mean it was possibly worn by a bride on her wedding day. However, such a garment would have had long sleeves, suggesting this example was altered later.

FE.101-1982