Image of Gallery in South Kensington
Request to view at the Prints & Drawings Study Room, level D , Case FD, Shelf 11

Fashion Design

1948-49 (designed)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

This is a pencil drawing of a woman in an evening dress with a red fabric sample stapled to the page at the bottom right, designed by Marjorie Field in the1940s for the haute couture firm Field Rhoades which was registered in the London street directories at 77, South Audley Street, London, W1 for the years 1948 to 1949. The words 'cire moire' , written in pencil at the top left, describe the material that the designer envisaged being used. 'Cire' is a term used to describe a highly glazed finish, usually achieved by applying wax, heat and pressure to a a fabric. 'Moire' means waterered silk, or another fabric with a wavy 'watered' surface pattern. It also refers to the technique in which a heated roller is applied to fabric, creating the watered effect.

This drawing relates closely to E.483:10-2005, a presentation design in pencil and bodycolour included in a Field Rhoades volume with printed descriptions and prices, which shows a red evening dress in a matt rayon crepe French jersey. The pose of the woman and the general form of the dress is almost identical in the two designs, so it is probably that the pencil drawing represents an earlier stage in the design process for the same dress, and even that E.483:10-2005 was traced from it. The contrasting piping along the neck and waistlines seen in the pencil drawing is no longer present.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Pencil on paper with fabric sample, attached with a staple
Brief description
Fashion design for evening dress by Marjorie Field, 1940s.
Physical description
A pencil drawing showing a woman in an evening dress, with a red silk sample stapled to the page at the bottom right. A smaller pencil sketch to the right shows the back of the dress.
Dimensions
  • Height: 33.1cm
  • Width: 20.4cm
Production typeHaute couture
Marks and inscriptions
  • 'cire moire' (In pencil at top left)
  • 'Gertrude' [crossed out] / Private Lives' (In pencil at bottom left)
  • 'Eden Grove / Bond / TUB SIZED - AIR DRIED' (This is the same watermark as E.481-2005.)
Credit line
Given by Paul Williamson
Object history
The provenance can be traced back to Gwen Mandley, an artist who was a friend of the designer, Marjorie Field.
Production
The haute couture firm Field Rhoades was registered in the London street directories at 77, South Audley Street, London W1 for the years 1948 to 1949.

Reason For Production: Retail
Summary
This is a pencil drawing of a woman in an evening dress with a red fabric sample stapled to the page at the bottom right, designed by Marjorie Field in the1940s for the haute couture firm Field Rhoades which was registered in the London street directories at 77, South Audley Street, London, W1 for the years 1948 to 1949. The words 'cire moire' , written in pencil at the top left, describe the material that the designer envisaged being used. 'Cire' is a term used to describe a highly glazed finish, usually achieved by applying wax, heat and pressure to a a fabric. 'Moire' means waterered silk, or another fabric with a wavy 'watered' surface pattern. It also refers to the technique in which a heated roller is applied to fabric, creating the watered effect.

This drawing relates closely to E.483:10-2005, a presentation design in pencil and bodycolour included in a Field Rhoades volume with printed descriptions and prices, which shows a red evening dress in a matt rayon crepe French jersey. The pose of the woman and the general form of the dress is almost identical in the two designs, so it is probably that the pencil drawing represents an earlier stage in the design process for the same dress, and even that E.483:10-2005 was traced from it. The contrasting piping along the neck and waistlines seen in the pencil drawing is no longer present.
Collection
Accession number
E.480-2005

About this object record

Explore the Collections contains over a million catalogue records, and over half a million images. It is a working database that includes information compiled over the life of the museum. Some of our records may contain offensive and discriminatory language, or reflect outdated ideas, practice and analysis. We are committed to addressing these issues, and to review and update our records accordingly.

You can write to us to suggest improvements to the record.

Suggest feedback

Record createdFebruary 23, 2006
Record URL
Download as: JSON