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Fashion design

  • Place of origin:

    London (designed)

  • Date:

    1948-49 (designed)

  • Artist/Maker:

    Field, Marjorie (designer)

  • Materials and Techniques:

    Pencil on paper with fabric sample, attached with a staple

  • Credit Line:

    Given by Paul Williamson

  • Museum number:

    E.480-2005

  • Gallery location:

    Prints & Drawings Study Room, level D, case FD, shelf 11

This is a pencil drawing of a woman in an evening dress with a red fabric sample stapled to the page at the bottom right, designed by Marjorie Field in the1940s for the haute couture firm Field Rhoades which was registered in the London street directories at 77, South Audley Street, London, W1 for the years 1948 to 1949. The words 'cire moire' , written in pencil at the top left, describe the material that the designer envisaged being used. 'Cire' is a term used to describe a highly glazed finish, usually achieved by applying wax, heat and pressure to a a fabric. 'Moire' means waterered silk, or another fabric with a wavy 'watered' surface pattern. It also refers to the technique in which a heated roller is applied to fabric, creating the watered effect.

This drawing relates closely to E.483:10-2005, a presentation design in pencil and bodycolour included in a Field Rhoades volume with printed descriptions and prices, which shows a red evening dress in a matt rayon crepe French jersey. The pose of the woman and the general form of the dress is almost identical in the two designs, so it is probably that the pencil drawing represents an earlier stage in the design process for the same dress, and even that E.483:10-2005 was traced from it. The contrasting piping along the neck and waistlines seen in the pencil drawing is no longer present.

Physical description

A pencil drawing showing a woman in an evening dress, with a red silk sample stapled to the page at the bottom right. A smaller pencil sketch to the right shows the back of the dress.

Place of Origin

London (designed)

Date

1948-49 (designed)

Artist/maker

Field, Marjorie (designer)

Materials and Techniques

Pencil on paper with fabric sample, attached with a staple

Marks and inscriptions

'cire moire'
In pencil at top left

'Gertrude' [crossed out] / Private Lives'
In pencil at bottom left

'Eden Grove / Bond / TUB SIZED - AIR DRIED'
This is the same watermark as E.481-2005.

Dimensions

Height: 33.1 cm, Width: 20.4 cm

Object history note

The provenance can be traced back to Gwen Mandley, an artist who was a friend of the designer, Marjorie Field.

Descriptive line

Fashion design for evening dress by Marjorie Field, 1940s.

Production Note

The haute couture firm Field Rhoades was registered in the London street directories at 77, South Audley Street, London W1 for the years 1948 to 1949.

Reason For Production: Retail

Materials

Pencil; Paper; Silk; Metal

Techniques

Drawing techniques; Stapling

Subjects depicted

Dresses

Categories

Clothing; Designs; Drawings; Evening wear; Fashion; Textiles; Women's clothes

Production Type

Haute couture

Collection

Prints, Drawings & Paintings Collection

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