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  • Place of origin:

    Paris (made)

  • Date:

    1860-70 (made)

  • Artist/Maker:


  • Materials and Techniques:

    Openwork gold, enamelled in black set with diamonds and pearls, with pearls and diamond pendants

  • Credit Line:

    Cory Bequest

  • Museum number:


  • Gallery location:

    Jewellery, Rooms 91, The William and Judith Bollinger Gallery, case 23, shelf B, box 5

The brooch was perhaps made by Crouzet, who worked for all the major Parisian goldsmiths, producing jewellery of fine quality and original design. He is known to have produced similar pieces in the Moroccan taste. The brooch may also have been inspired by the " moresque " work of the important Parisian goldsmith Alphonse Fouquet. The jewel may have been suitable for wear during mourning.

Visitors to the Great Exhibition held in London in 1851 greatly admired the Indian jewellery. Its rich appearance was achieved by combining enamelled gold with dense settings of pearls and thinly cut coloured stones.

By the 1860s, as European commercial jewellery lost its appeal in artistic circles, jewellery from the Middle East and India became an important influence. In London, the Art Journal encouraged an appreciation of jewellery from countries such as Syria and Palestine. In Paris, jewellery made in the Moroccan style reflected the French engagement with North Africa.

Physical description

Gold, enamelled in black and set with rose and brilliant-cut diamonds and pearls, with pearl and diamond pendants in the Moroccan manner.

Place of Origin

Paris (made)


1860-70 (made)



Materials and Techniques

Openwork gold, enamelled in black set with diamonds and pearls, with pearls and diamond pendants

Marks and inscriptions

Paris warranty mark for 1847 to 1919


Length: 8.3 cm, Width: 5.2 cm

Descriptive line

Gold open work brooch, enamelled in black and set with diamonds and pearls, ca. 1860-70.

Bibliographic References (Citation, Note/Abstract, NAL no)

Shirley Bury, Jewellery 1789-1910, The International Era, Vol.II. p.687 colour plate 192

Production Note

Made by or inspired by the Moroccan manner of Crouzet or the "moresque " work of Alphonse Fouquet.


Gold; Diamond; Pearl


Enamelled; Faceted

Subjects depicted





Metalwork Collection

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