The dominance of full, bell-shaped skirts in the 1950s was challenged occasionally by the slender sheath dress. This dark green 'femme fatale' dress was designed by the London couturier Digby Morton (1906-83).
Morton originally trained as an architect, and his eye for structure and intricate design is evident in most of his clothing. This dress has an understructure of pleated silk taffeta to ensure that it falls correctly.
Physical description
Evening ensemble consisting of a dress, ornament and a pair of gloves.
[Glove] Short matching green jersey silk gloves.
[Glove] Short matching green jersey silk gloves.
[Ornament] Black velvet violets worn to the dress.
[Dress] Evening dress of dark green silk jersey with wide shoulder straps, square neck and asymmetric draping to a straight side pane, lined with black satin crêpe. Underskirt of silk crêpe-de-Chine, with a pleated taffeta flounce to kick the bottom of the skirt out slightly.
Place of Origin
London, England (made)
Date
ca. 1954 (made)
Artist/maker
Digby Morton, born 1906 - died 1983 (designer)
Materials and Techniques
Silk jersey and silk taffeta flounce, with crêpe de Chine, and velvet
Marks and inscriptions
Label 'Digby Morton, Grosvenor Hill, London, W.1'
'Mrs H. Robertson N2 26 57'
Object history note
Given by Lady Howard Robertson, 59 Montague Square, London, W.1. on September 19 1975.
Descriptive line
Evening ensemble with silk jersey dress, velvet ornament and a pair silk jersey gloves, designed by Digby Morton, London, ca. 1954.
Bibliographic References (Citation, Note/Abstract, NAL no)
Wilcox, C., 'Dior's Golden Age' in Wilcox, C., ed., The Golden Age of Couture: Paris and London 1947-57 (V&A Publications, 2007), pl.2.17
Image
Exhibition History
The Golden Age of Couture. Paris and London 1947 - 1957 (Victoria and Albert Museum 22/09/2007-06/01/2008)
Labels and date
Evening dress
Digby Morton (1906-83)
London
About 1954
The poisonous dark green of this 'femme fatale' dress is emphasised by a posy of black velvet violets.
Silk jersey with silk taffeta flounce, with underskirt of crêpe de Chine and matching silk jersey gloves
Given by Lady Howard Robertson
V&A: T.278&A to C-1975 [22/09/2007-06/01/2008]
Materials
Velvet; Crepe; Taffeta; Crepe de chine; Silk jersey
Techniques
Weaving; Sewing
Subjects depicted
Flowers
Categories
Clothing; Fashion; Evening wear; Accessories; Women's clothes
Production Type
Haute couture
Collection code
T&F