Lady Alexandra Howard-Johnston (later Lady Dacre) was the wife of the Naval Attaché to Paris at the end of the 1940s. She required an extensive wardrobe for the many formal dinners and state functions that she had to attend. She dressed exclusively at the French couturier Jacques Fath (1912-54).
In 1949, Lady Alexandra commissioned one of Fath's most popular designs of the season, but requested that it be made up in her husband's family tartan. She purchased the hand-woven and naturally-dyed fabric from Scotland herself. The design features typical Fath motifs such as a flying panel at the back and decorative buttons and bows.
Lady Alexandra wore this dress frequently, especially to lunch, and accessorised it with a black hat and pearls.
Physical description
Day dress of green woollen tartan in blue, black and yellow. It has a high neck with a mandarin collar. The front of the dress has a right flap, overlapping left cut diagonally from shoulder to waist and is secured in place by black petersham flat bow threaded through top left. It has long sleeves with an underarm gusset, tapering to the wrist with a zipper fastening.
The skirt is of an A-line shape with folds of material at the back left, secured in place by buttons and button-holes, and sewn through a couple of layers. A further fold hides the extension of the centre back zipper into the skirt, attached to the waistline with a hook and eye. There is a pocket on the right side of the front of skirt. The skirt is lined with black net and grey silk to the waist. All natural vegetable dyes.
Place of Origin
Paris, France (made)
Scotland, Great Britain (textile, made)
Date
1949-1950 (made)
Artist/maker
Jacques Fath, born 1912 - died 1954 (designer)
Materials and Techniques
Wool lined with net and silk, petersham
Dimensions
Circumference: 60 cm waist
Object history note
Lady Alexandra, (married first to Captian (later Rear Admiral) Clarence Howard-Johnston), purchased the Johnston tartan in Scotland for this dress.
Her daughter recalls that she wore it very frequently out to lunch, most likely with a black hat.
The textile is made with natural vegetable dyes as Lady Alexandra favoured the yellowish colour created.
It is very typical of Fath's style - tight fitting, with flying panels, and decorative (or exaggerated) bows and buttons.
Historical context note
Lady Trevor-Roper favoured designs by Jacques Fath for her wardrobe, and contributed the vast proportion of the V&A's Fath collection.
Descriptive line
Day dress of Johnston woollen tartan, designed by Jacques Fath, Paris, 1949-1950
Bibliographic References (Citation, Note/Abstract, NAL no)
Lynn, E., 'Lady Alexandra' in Wilcox, C. ed., The Golden Age of Couture: Paris and London 1947-1957 (V&A Publications, 2007), p.172-3 & pl.7.15.
Another dress that Fath created for her [Lady Alexandra] was in the Johnston tartan. Fath was well known for his daring use of pattern and colour, and the fabric suited his desigs well.
Cecil Beaton gift Registered Papers F/5, November 5 1971:
My daughter (who is a very pretty blonde and small, not at all like me!) has seized a Jacques Fath dress, made specially for me, in Johnston tartan which is 'tres a la mode' at the moment! None of the other dresses would suit her or she would have appropriated them! Love from Xandra
Cecil Beaton gift Registered Papers F/5,1971:
Fired by enthusiasm after seeing the exhibition I have found some more things which I shall be very happy to give. The tartan dress I wrote about does no suit my daughter at all (she is much too small to wear Fath models) and I will be delighted to give it as I think it a marvellous design. It probably needs cleaning as it has been hanging in my cupboard for many years, although in a dress bag. It was made in the autumn of 1949 from veg. dyed Johnston tartan supplied by me from Scotland.
Exhibition History
The Golden Age of Couture. Paris and London 1947 - 1957 (Victoria and Albert Museum 22/09/2007-06/01/2008)
Labels and date
Dress and hat
Jacques Fath (1912-54)
Paris
1949
This dress was made for Lady Alexandra Howard-Johnston (later Lady Dacre). The Johnston tartan was made in Scotland, using natural colours as synthetic dye made the yellow too bright.
Dress: woollen tartan, lined with net and silk
Hat: velvet
Given by Lady Dacre
V&A: T.180, 270A-1974 [22/09/2007]
Associated names
Cecil Beaton
Production Note
The textile was manufactured in Scotland by Johnson.
Reason For Production: Commission
Materials
Silk; Wool; Net
Techniques
Weaving; Sewing
Subjects depicted
Tartan
Categories
Textiles; Fashion; Day wear; Women's clothes
Production Type
Haute couture
Collection code
T&F
