Cocktail dress with brooch
- Place of origin:
- Date:
- Artist/Maker:
Jacques Fath, born 1912 - died 1954 (designer)
Gripoix (maker)
- Materials and Techniques:
Silk taffeta, nylon net, cotton, boned and padded, diamanté, beads and pearls
- Credit Line:
Given by Lady Alexandra Trevor-Roper
- Museum number:
- Gallery location:
- Image in copyright
This dress and its petticoat were designed by the French couturier Jacques Fath (1912-54) in 1955. The petticoat is made of silk, nylon and net with a boned cotton bodice and a padded bra. It shows the care and attention that was given to the under-garments of couture dresses.
The silk taffeta dress was worn by Lady Alexandra Howard-Johnston (later Lady Dacre), the wife of the Naval Attaché to Paris at the end of the 1940s. She required an extensive wardrobe for the many formal dinners and state functions that she had to attend, and dressed exclusively at Jacques Fath.
The draping and pleating of the dress is characteristic of Jacques Fath’s work. Fath would frequently design by gathering and pinning directly onto the mannequin resulting in folds, panels or volants, especially around the hip.
Physical description
Evening cocktail dress of black silk taffeta, nylon petticoat with a boned cotton bodice and diamanté brooch.
[Brooch] Decorative brooch with diamanté, bead and pearl tear drops, worn at the bottom of the neck.
[Petticoat] Underslip petticoat of black nylon net with a boned cotton bodice and bra padded with circular bust pads.
[Evening dress] Dress of silk taffeta with a low V-neck, a fitted bodice with a low-waisted flared skirt with a mock bow tying at the front of skirt, and fastening at the back of the skirt with three buttons. It has long sleeves, slightly gathered at the elbow, and tapering to the wrist with a zipper opening. It has a centre back zipper fastening. The skirt has a net lining, re-enforced with a double layer at the front of the skirt.
Place of Origin
Paris, France (made)
Date
1955 (made)
Artist/maker
Jacques Fath, born 1912 - died 1954 (designer)
Gripoix (maker)
Materials and Techniques
Silk taffeta, nylon net, cotton, boned and padded, diamanté, beads and pearls
Marks and inscriptions
'Jacques Fath / Paris'
Descriptive line
Evening cocktail dress of silk taffeta, and nylon petticoat with a boned cotton bodice, designed by Jacques Fath, diamanté brooch made by Gripoix, Paris, 1955
Bibliographic References (Citation, Note/Abstract, NAL no)
Photograph taken by Willy Maywald of model wearing this dress, standing by a car. Accessorised with a large saucer brimmed hat and black gloves.
Caption: Modèle de Jacques Fath, automne-hiver Paris 1955
Collection Association Willy Maywald
( www.chic-cityrats.net )
© Association Willy Maywald - ADAGP
Exhibition History
The Golden Age of Couture. Paris and London 1947 - 1957 (Victoria and Albert Museum 22/09/2007-06/01/2008)
Labels and date
Petticoat [shown in the 'Underwear' case]
Jacques Fath (1912-54)
Paris
1952
This couture petticoat was worn under a black silk taffeta cocktail dress.
Nylon and net with boned cotton bodice and padded bra
Given by Lady Dacre
V&A: T.183A-1974 [22/09/2007]
Associated names
Cecil Beaton
Production Note
Brooch by couture jeweller Gripoix
Materials
Cotton; Silk; Metal; Pearl; Beads; Net; Whalebone
Techniques
Weaving; Sewing
Categories
Jewellery; Fashion; Evening wear; Accessories; Underwear; Women's clothes
Production Type
Haute couture
Collection code
T&F
