Lady Alexandra Howard-Johnston (later Lady Dacre) was the wife of the Naval Attaché to Paris from 1948-50. She required an extensive wardrobe for the many formal dinners and state functions that she had to attend.
A couture client would attend all the fashion collections, seated in the front row if she were especially important like Lady Alexandra. After the show, she would place her orders with her vendeuse (personal saleswoman). A calico toile would be created, then the final garment, a process involving numerous time-consuming fittings.
Lady Alexandra dressed exclusively at the house of Jacques Fath (1912-54). The designer lent her evening and day dresses each season, aware of the publicity that this would give his house. She recalled : ‘If there was a Fath dress I wanted to keep, I could pay sale price at the end of the season. I was not allowed to go to any other couturier, but I did not want to – Fath was perfection.’
This printed day-dress is secured by a set of intricate fastenings. The swag (stiffened with net) crosses over on the left front; the skirt opens on the left back side and fastens with a series of hooks. Its form-fitting style is typical of Fath, who draped fabric around his models in order to create his designs.
Physical description
Day dress in a green and violet foliage printed viscose rayon on a white slubweave ground, and with a matching swag.
[Swag] Separate matching swag, with a posy of paper violets.
[Dress] Fitted dress with a V-neck and a tapering collar, and short sleeves. The skirt is a cross-over style, and attached to the bodice at the waist, with a swag (stiffened with net) on left front. It has a centre back zip fastener, and the skirt opens at the left back side and fastens with a series of hooks. The skirt is semi-lined. The dress has 2 padded silk circular bust pads.
Place of Origin
Paris, France (made)
Date
1949 (made)
Artist/maker
Jacques Fath, born 1912 - died 1954 (designer)
Materials and Techniques
Printed viscose rayon and silk, semi-lined
Marks and inscriptions
'Jacques Fath Paris' [with emblem above]
Dimensions
Circumference: 60 cm waist, Circumference: 90 cm bust, Diameter: 40 cm footprint
Descriptive line
Day dress in printed viscose rayon, and with a matching swag, designed by Jacques Fath, Paris, 1949
Bibliographic References (Citation, Note/Abstract, NAL no)
Vickers, H., 'Cecil Beaton and his anthology of fashion', in Wilcox, C., ed., The Golden Age of Couture: Paris and London 1947-57 (V&A Publications: 2007), p.165
Lynn, E., 'Lady Alexandra' in Wilcox, C., ed., The Golden Age of Couture: Paris and London 1947-57 (V&A Publications: 2007), p. 172-3
Exhibition History
The Golden Age of Couture. Paris and London 1947 - 1957 (Victoria and Albert Museum 01/09/2007-31/12/2022)
Labels and date
LADY ALEXANDRA: A COUTURE CLIENT
Lady Alexandra Howard-Johnston (later Lady Dacre) was the wife of the Naval Attaché to Paris. She required an extensive wardrobe for the many formal dinners and state functions that she had to attend.
A couture client would attend all the fashion collections, seated in the front row if she were especially important. After the show, she would place her orders with her personal vendeuse or saleswoman. A calico toile would be created, then the final garment, a process involving numerous time-consuming fittings.
Lady Alexandra dressed exclusively at Jacques Fath. The designer lent her evening and day dresses each season, aware of the publicity that this would give his house. ‘If there was a Fath dress I wanted to keep, I could pay sale price at the end of the season. I was not allowed to go to any other couturier, but I did not want to – Fath was perfection.’
Day dress
Jacques Fath (1912-54)
Paris
1949
This dress is secured by a set of intricate fastenings. The swag (stiffened with net) crosses over on the left front; the skirt opens on the left back side and fastens with a series of hooks.
Printed cotton
Given by Lady Dacre
V&A: T.179-1974 [22/09/2007]
Associated names
Cecil Beaton
Materials
Rayon; Net
Techniques
Slub weave
Subjects depicted
Flowers
Categories
Fashion; Day wear; Women's clothes
Production Type
Haute couture
Collection code
T&F
