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Dress

1949 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Lady Alexandra Howard-Johnston (later Lady Dacre) was the wife of the Naval Attaché to Paris from 1948-50. She required an extensive wardrobe for the many formal dinners and state functions that she had to attend.

A couture client would attend all the fashion collections, seated in the front row if she were especially important like Lady Alexandra. After the show, she would place her orders with her vendeuse (personal saleswoman). A calico toile would be created, then the final garment, a process involving numerous time-consuming fittings.

Lady Alexandra dressed exclusively at the house of Jacques Fath (1912-54). The designer lent her evening and day dresses each season, aware of the publicity that this would give his house. She recalled : ‘If there was a Fath dress I wanted to keep, I could pay sale price at the end of the season. I was not allowed to go to any other couturier, but I did not want to – Fath was perfection.’

This printed day-dress is secured by a set of intricate fastenings. The swag (stiffened with net) crosses over on the left front; the skirt opens on the left back side and fastens with a series of hooks. Its form-fitting style is typical of Fath, who draped fabric around his models in order to create his designs.

Object details

Categories
Object type
Parts
This object consists of 2 parts.

  • Swag
  • Dress
Materials and techniques
Printed viscose rayon and silk, semi-lined
Brief description
Day dress in printed viscose rayon, and with a matching swag, designed by Jacques Fath, Paris, 1949
Physical description
Day dress in a green and violet foliage printed viscose rayon on a white slubweave ground, and with a matching swag.
Dimensions
  • Waist circumference: 60cm
  • Bust circumference: 90cm
  • Footprint diameter: 40cm
Stockman (UK Female) mannequin size 38
Production typeHaute couture
Marks and inscriptions
'Jacques Fath Paris' [with emblem above] (Label, machine woven, brown on white)
Gallery label
(22/09/2007)
LADY ALEXANDRA: A COUTURE CLIENT

Lady Alexandra Howard-Johnston (later Lady Dacre) was the wife of the Naval Attaché to Paris. She required an extensive wardrobe for the many formal dinners and state functions that she had to attend.

A couture client would attend all the fashion collections, seated in the front row if she were especially important. After the show, she would place her orders with her personal vendeuse or saleswoman. A calico toile would be created, then the final garment, a process involving numerous time-consuming fittings.

Lady Alexandra dressed exclusively at Jacques Fath. The designer lent her evening and day dresses each season, aware of the publicity that this would give his house. ‘If there was a Fath dress I wanted to keep, I could pay sale price at the end of the season. I was not allowed to go to any other couturier, but I did not want to – Fath was perfection.’


Day dress
Jacques Fath (1912-54)
Paris
1949

This dress is secured by a set of intricate fastenings. The swag (stiffened with net) crosses over on the left front; the skirt opens on the left back side and fastens with a series of hooks.

Printed cotton

Given by Lady Dacre
V&A: T.179-1974
Credit line
Given by Lady Alexandra Trevor-Roper
Subject depicted
Association
Summary
Lady Alexandra Howard-Johnston (later Lady Dacre) was the wife of the Naval Attaché to Paris from 1948-50. She required an extensive wardrobe for the many formal dinners and state functions that she had to attend.

A couture client would attend all the fashion collections, seated in the front row if she were especially important like Lady Alexandra. After the show, she would place her orders with her vendeuse (personal saleswoman). A calico toile would be created, then the final garment, a process involving numerous time-consuming fittings.

Lady Alexandra dressed exclusively at the house of Jacques Fath (1912-54). The designer lent her evening and day dresses each season, aware of the publicity that this would give his house. She recalled : ‘If there was a Fath dress I wanted to keep, I could pay sale price at the end of the season. I was not allowed to go to any other couturier, but I did not want to – Fath was perfection.’

This printed day-dress is secured by a set of intricate fastenings. The swag (stiffened with net) crosses over on the left front; the skirt opens on the left back side and fastens with a series of hooks. Its form-fitting style is typical of Fath, who draped fabric around his models in order to create his designs.
Bibliographic references
  • Vickers, H., 'Cecil Beaton and his anthology of fashion', in Wilcox, C., ed., The Golden Age of Couture: Paris and London 1947-57 (V&A Publications: 2007), p.165
  • Lynn, E., 'Lady Alexandra' in Wilcox, C., ed., The Golden Age of Couture: Paris and London 1947-57 (V&A Publications: 2007), p. 172-3
Collection
Accession number
T.179&A-1974

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Record createdJanuary 11, 2006
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