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Dress

Dress

  • Place of origin:

    London (made)

  • Date:

    1973 (designed)

  • Artist/Maker:

    Biba (designer)

  • Materials and Techniques:

    Jersey

  • Credit Line:

    Given by Barbara Hulanicki

  • Museum number:

    T.120-2011

  • Gallery location:

    Fashion, Room 40, case CA15, shelf FIG1

Physical description

Day dress in light brown jersey with a darker brown stripe, short sleeves, bodice with deep V neck and square buttons down front and flared peplum at hips giving a jacket-and-skirt illusion. The peplum also conceals a fly-style front zipper which extends down from the buttoned jacket opening. Midi-length skirt with flared hemline. The striped fabric is cut at alternating angles to enhance the Deco illusion.

Place of Origin

London (made)

Date

1973 (designed)

Artist/maker

Biba (designer)

Materials and Techniques

Jersey

Marks and inscriptions

'BIBA'
Printed gold satin label in neck

'0305100'
Stamped blue serial number on a paper factory tag in side seam of bodice.

'2513 8'
Numbers stamped on factory tag in side seam

'Vi'
Written in blue pen on reverse of paper factory tag with 2513-8 stamped on it. Probably the factory machinist's identification.

Dimensions

Length: 98 cm overall, Length: 60 cm skirt, Circumference: 70 cm bust, Circumference: 56 cm waist, Width: 31 cm centre back

Object history note

This dress has been previously dated to 1970-71, although it is now thought to be from 1973. Angela Smith, Biba scholar and advisor for Brighton Museum's Biba retrospective had this to say:

"The silhouette of this ensemble does not fit in with any of the Biba silhouettes between 1970-1971. However, it fits in perfectly with the 1973 Biba silhouette which repeatedly uses the same sleeve and shoulder shape, peplum, skirt length and the front yoke on the jacket. Also the colour scheme and striped jersey fit in better with the 1973 collections and the cut plastic Deco style buttons. There is always the "odd" piece which appears to be later but is in fact earlier - an example of Barbara Hulanicki pre-empting future collections. One good example of this is a double-breasted mackintosh coat which appears first in the mid-1960s and then again in 1969 and again in the 1970s, all very similar, and usually only the garment label is the way to date them because they all look basically the same. Another example is a bishop sleeve white cotton maxi dress which first appeared as a retail garment in the Kensington High Street 1969-1970. However, it was designed in 1966 and not put into production for about four years."

- Daniel Milford-Cottam, 15/06/2016

Descriptive line

Dress, light brown jersey with dark brown stripe, Biba, London, 1973.

Materials

Jersey

Categories

Day wear; Fashion; Clothing; Women's clothes; Europeana Fashion Project

Production Type

Ready to wear

Collection

Textiles and Fashion Collection

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