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Jacket and skirt
  • Jacket and skirt
    Cristóbal Balenciaga, born 1895 - died 1972
  • Enlarge image

Jacket and skirt

  • Place of origin:

    Paris, France (made)

  • Date:

    1954-1955 (made)

  • Artist/Maker:

    Cristóbal Balenciaga, born 1895 - died 1972 (designer)

  • Materials and Techniques:

    Tweed lined with silk

  • Credit Line:

    Given by Mrs D.M. Haynes and Mrs M. Clark

  • Museum number:

    T.128&A-1982

  • Gallery location:

    Fashion, room 40, case CA12, shelf FIG9

  • Image in copyright

This suit comprises a fitted jacket and slim-fitting skirt with a kick pleat at the back. It was shown in Balenciaga's Winter collection in 1954 as model no. 55. It reveals Balenciaga’s debt to his training in tailoring in Spain and his capacity for choosing fabrics fit for purpose. His suits were highly regarded and commanded high prices. In the early 1950s, a made-to-measure woollen suit from Balenciaga cost about £112, a sum well beyond the reach of most consumers.

He was adept at manipulating firm fabrics. The style of jacket relies for effect on careful fitting to the body in front and gentle fullness at the back, and in the setting of the sleeves. Balenciaga was renowned in the trade for inspecting and resetting sleeves that were not perfect.

Tweed was a sturdy woollen fabric that appealed to Balenciaga because of the optical illusions created by the two or more colours in the indistinct flecked pattern.

Physical description

Jacket and skirt of black and white tweed lined with silk.

Place of Origin

Paris, France (made)

Date

1954-1955 (made)

Artist/maker

Cristóbal Balenciaga, born 1895 - died 1972 (designer)

Materials and Techniques

Tweed lined with silk

Marks and inscriptions

'Balenciaga, 10 Avenue George V, Paris'
'49243'

Dimensions

Circumference: 96 cm bust, Circumference: 72 cm waist, Length: 77 cm skirt, Diameter: 50 cm skirt footprint

Object history note

Opal Holt was born in Canada in 1887 but lived in the US until the end of the Second World War. She travelled extensively between the wars and was in the first plane to land in Bali. She married Herbert Holt, a Canadian who lived a large part of his life in England, as her third husband in 1946. They came to England and Europe every summer and Opal Holt began buying clothes in Paris for her life in England, and for the Bahamas in Winter, over a period of about thirty years. She died in 1980.

Given by Mrs D.M Haynes and Mrs. Clark (nee Holt; Opal Holt's step-daughters).

Descriptive line

Jacket and skirt of tweed lined with silk, designed by Cristóbal Balenciaga, Paris, 1954-1955

Bibliographic References (Citation, Note/Abstract, NAL no)

French Vogue, September 1954. Photograph by Clifford Coffin
Text:
In Paris

The flare-backed suit
Very much Balenciaga's, this backward swing to a short jacket. The fabric is pepper-and-salt tweed; the pillbox, also back-tilted in white ermine, with a tight little pigtail.
Catalogue for 'Hommage a Balenciaga' (Musee des Tissus, Lyon) Cat. no: 85/203
Catalogue: Hommage a Balenciaga (Musee Historique des tissus Lyon: 1985), p. 73 and 74.
Miller, L., 'Balenciaga: master tailor' in Wilcox, C. ed., The Golden Age of Couture: Paris and London 1947-1957 (V&A Publications, 2007), p.154-5 and pl.6.15-6

Exhibition History

The Golden Age of Couture. Paris and London 1947 - 1957 (Victoria & Albert Museum 22/09/2007-06/01/2008)
Balenciaga Paris (Union Centrale des Arts Décoratifs, Musee de la Mode et du Textile 06/07/2006-28/01/2007)
Hommage a Balenciaga (Musee des Tissus, Lyon 01/09/1985-31/01/1986)

Labels and date

Suit
Cristóbal Balenciaga (1895–1972)
Paris
1954 autumn/winter

In a survey of French couture houses compiled at this time, Celia Bertin wrote of Balenciaga, ‘I noticed long ago that women who wear his tailored suits seem to have them moulded on to their bodies, so much do the jackets appear wedded to their figures, while leaving them complete freedom of movement’.

Tweed lined with silk

Worn by Mrs Opal Holt and given by Mrs Haynes and Mrs Clark
V&A: T.128&A-1982 [22/09/2007-06/01/2008]

Materials

Tweed

Techniques

Weaving

Categories

Fashion; Women's clothes

Production Type

Haute couture

Collection code

T&F

Qr_O119378
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