Skirt Suit thumbnail 1
Skirt Suit thumbnail 2
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Not currently on display at the V&A

Skirt Suit

ca. 1956-1957 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Balenciaga was the most exclusive fashion house in Paris immediately after World War II. The Spanish-born couturier Cristóbal Balenciaga (1895-1972), ‘the Master’ to his fellow fashion designers, had moved to Paris from Spain in 1937. By 1952 he had 232 employees and his house produced 356 new designs per year. His clients, admitted to the salon only after a personal introduction, included many cosmopolitan women of different nationalities. Some dressed exclusively in his clothes.

Balenciaga was a perfectionist in cutting and seaming, and was renowned for reworking garments even when they were being worn by a client. In the 1950s, Balenciaga’s designs became increasingly pared down, foreshadowing the simple geometry of 1960s fashion, as seen here. Balenciaga enjoyed the challenge of creating garments for older women. In this suit, the forgiving gathers of the skirt would conceal a less than perfect figure.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Parts
This object consists of 3 parts.

  • Skirt
  • Jacket
  • Scarf
Materials and techniques
Wool with silk lining
Brief description
Skirt, jacket and scarf in wool, with silk lining, designed by Cristóbal Balenciaga, probably made by Ascher Ltd., Paris, ca. 1956-1957
Physical description
Skirt, jacket and fringed scarf in charcoal wool, with silk lining.
Dimensions
  • Skirt & jacket weight: 1.42kg
NB: Scarf not included in weight.
Style
Production typeHaute couture
Marks and inscriptions
  • 'Balenciaga, 10 Avenue George V, Paris' (Inside back neckline, white on black)
  • '65361' (Number hand-written on the back of the label)
Gallery label
  • ASCHER TEXTILES, LONDON Balenciaga was a challenging client. He demanded exact colour matches and tested fabrics rigorously. Would, for instance, a perfect buttonhole be possible? London-based firm Ascher manufactured textiles in traditional smallscale Scottish mills. They earned international acclaim for their warm, light-weight mohairs, which were particularly suitable for women’s tailoring. Balenciaga was one of the first couturiers to use Ascher wool and synthetic mix mohairs. Skirt suit and stole Wool by Ascher Cristóbal Balenciaga, Paris, 1956–7 Given by Mrs D.M. Haynes and Mrs M. Clark V&A: T.131 to B-1982(27/05/2017-07/02/2018)
  • [Tailoring section] Suit with matching scarf Cristóbal Balenciaga (1895-1972) Paris About 1956-7 Balenciaga favoured the dense tweeds made by Zika Ascher, the Prague-born British textile manufacturer who supplied many of the couture houses in the 1950s. Most designers found such fabrics testing, but Balenciaga transcended any difficulties. Similarly, he enjoyed the challenge of creating garments for older women. In this case, the forgiving gathers of the skirt would conceal a less than perfect figure. Wool, probably supplied by Ascher Ltd Worn by Mrs Opal Holt and given by Mrs Haynes and Mrs Clark V&A: T.131&A, B-1982(22/09/2007-06/01/2008)
Credit line
Given by Mrs D.M. Haynes and Mrs M. Clark
Object history
Opal Holt was born in Canada in 1887 but lived in the US until the end of the Second World War. She travelled extensively between the wars and was in the first plane to land in Bali. She married Herbert Holt, a Canadian who lived a large part of his life in England, as her third husband in 1946. They came to England and Europe every summer and Opal Holt began buying clothes in Paris for her life in England, and for the Bahamas in Winter, over a period of about thirty years. She died in 1980.

Given by Mrs D.M Haynes and Mrs. Clark (nee Holt; Opal Holt's step-daughters).
Summary
Balenciaga was the most exclusive fashion house in Paris immediately after World War II. The Spanish-born couturier Cristóbal Balenciaga (1895-1972), ‘the Master’ to his fellow fashion designers, had moved to Paris from Spain in 1937. By 1952 he had 232 employees and his house produced 356 new designs per year. His clients, admitted to the salon only after a personal introduction, included many cosmopolitan women of different nationalities. Some dressed exclusively in his clothes.

Balenciaga was a perfectionist in cutting and seaming, and was renowned for reworking garments even when they were being worn by a client. In the 1950s, Balenciaga’s designs became increasingly pared down, foreshadowing the simple geometry of 1960s fashion, as seen here. Balenciaga enjoyed the challenge of creating garments for older women. In this suit, the forgiving gathers of the skirt would conceal a less than perfect figure.
Other number
65361 - Number on label
Collection
Accession number
T.131 to B-1982

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Record createdDecember 5, 2005
Record URL
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