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Ring

  • Place of origin:

    Germany (possibly, made)

  • Date:

    1475-1525 (made)

  • Artist/Maker:

    Unknown

  • Materials and Techniques:

    Silver, engraved

  • Credit Line:

    Given by Dame Joan Evans

  • Museum number:

    M.258-1962

  • Gallery location:

    Medieval & Renaissance, Room 62, case 8

The open shears engraved upon the bezel of this signet ring indicate that it belonged to a member of a tailor's guild. The tools of craftsmen were often engraved upon seal matrices and signet rings to indicate membership of the guild and thus to confer status upon the wearer.
A large group of similar rings from Germany and central Europe have been found, most of which are silver or bronze, and which bear the emblems of a number of different trades.

Physical description

Signet ring, silver, the oval bezel engraved with an open pair of shears, with an inscription, possibly 'g/r/a/c/e', in black lettering around the shears. The shoulders are decorated with three bands of fluting with pearled edges. The back of the hoop is spirally gadrooned into five bands with pearled edges.

Place of Origin

Germany (possibly, made)

Date

1475-1525 (made)

Artist/maker

Unknown

Materials and Techniques

Silver, engraved

Marks and inscriptions

possibly 'g/r/a/c/e'
The shears are probably an individual's mark.

Dimensions

Diameter: 2.6 cm, Height: 1.1 cm bezel

Object history note

Historical significance: The open shears engraved upon the bezel of this ring indicate that it may have belonged to a member of a tailor's guild. The tools of craftsmen were often engraved upon seal matrices and rings to indicate membership of the guild and also confer status upon the wearer.
A large group of rings from Germany and central Europe, most of which are silver or bronze and which bear the emblems of a number of trades can be found in the Koch collection (Chadour, cat nos. 1098-1138). The British Museum holds a fifteenth century bronze French ring bearing a mason's hammer and the inscription Guille Macon (William the mason) (Dalton, cat.419., Ward, cat.168). The closest parallel to the V&A ring is catalogue number 1101 in the Koch collection, a Hungarian silver ring engraved with a pair of open shears on the bezel enclosed within a shield above which are the letters NM. Although the V&A ring was originally believed to be English, the parallels in the Koch collection and British Museum make a European or German origin more likely. The English attribution was partly based upon the inscription being read as grace but this cannot be clearly made out and should be reassessed.

Descriptive line

Signet ring, silver, the circular bezel engraved with an open pair of shears, probably Germany, ca. 1475-1525

Bibliographic References (Citation, Note/Abstract, NAL no)

Bury, Shirley, Jewellery Gallery Summary Catalogue. London, Victoria and Albert Museum, 1982, case 33, board J, number 22
Chadour, Anna Beatriz Rings: the Alice and Louis Koch collection, W.S. Maney and Son Ltd, Leeds, 1994
Ward, Anne et al The Ring from Antiquity to the Twentieth Century, London, Thames and Hudson, 1981, no.171, p78
Dalton, O.M. Catalogue of the Finger Rings: Early Christian, Byzantine, Teutonic, Medieval and Later bequeathed by Sir Augustus Woollastons Franks, K.C.B.), British Museum, London, 1912
Campbell, Marian, Medieval Jewellery in Europe 1100-1500, London, V&A Publishing, 2009, p.78, fig. 83
Church, Rachel, Rings, London, V&A Publishing, 2011, p.27

Labels and date

Silver ring, the circular bezel engraved with a merchant's mark comprising an open pair of shears, with 'g/r/a/c/e' in black letter between, with fluted and beaded shoulders, England, late 15th to early 16th century
Jewellery Gallery Summary Catalogue [1982]

Materials

Silver

Techniques

Engraving

Subjects depicted

Beading (edging pattern); Fluting; Shears

Categories

Jewellery; Metalwork; Europeana Fashion Project

Collection

Metalwork Collection

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