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Jewellery Design

Design
ca. 1860 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

This design comes from 'The Brogden Album', the album contained 1,593 designs for jewellery and goldsmith's work, mainly in colour and dating between 1848 and 1884. It is a unique record of the years in which John Brogden, an internationally celebrated 'art goldsmith and jeweller worked first in partnership and then as owner-director of his own firm. This was a period of great diversity in fashionable jewellery, and the Brogden firm where noted for their skill in designing and creating a range of styles.

The firm was founded by John Brogden the elder in about 1796. From about 1824 to 1831 it was styled 'Brogden and Garland' and thereafter until 1841 'Garland and Watherston'. The younger Brogden, the son of Thomas Brogden and presumably a relative of the founder, served an apprenticeship to J.W. garland as a goldsmith and jeweller from 1834 to 1841. Following Garland's departure, the remaining partner, J.H. Watherston, removed the firm to new premises at 16 Henrietta Street, Covent Garden and in 1848 joined forces with the younger Brogden.


Object details

Categories
Object type
TitleJewellery Design (generic title)
Materials and techniques
Pencil and watercolour drawings on card
Brief description
Design for jewellery, by the firm of John Brogden, about 1860
Physical description
Rectangular card with pencil and watercolour drawings depicting designs for four slide pendants on various articulated chains. The first pendant is comprised of interlocking gold and blue enamel ribbon in a Hercules knot. The blue enamel is inlaid with diamonds, and the gold is inlaid with blue enamel lozenges. The second pendant is comprised of light blue/grey enamel in the shape of a shield, and inlaid with four teardrop-shaped rubies around a central diamond, with a further diamond inlaid between each ruby. The third design represents a butterfly, the body of which is gold, and the wings made up of rows of small sapphires, or possibly turquoise, within a gold fretwork. The fourth design appears to be twisting around the chain, and is comprised of ornately patterned gold, inlaid with a band of blue enamel, which itself is inlaid with a row of diamonds. The centre of the pendant consists of a band of either white enamel, or an enamel of an undecided colour, inlaid with a row of rubies.
Dimensions
  • Height: 11.6cm
  • Width: 13cm
Styles
Production typeDesign
Subjects depicted
Summary
This design comes from 'The Brogden Album', the album contained 1,593 designs for jewellery and goldsmith's work, mainly in colour and dating between 1848 and 1884. It is a unique record of the years in which John Brogden, an internationally celebrated 'art goldsmith and jeweller worked first in partnership and then as owner-director of his own firm. This was a period of great diversity in fashionable jewellery, and the Brogden firm where noted for their skill in designing and creating a range of styles.

The firm was founded by John Brogden the elder in about 1796. From about 1824 to 1831 it was styled 'Brogden and Garland' and thereafter until 1841 'Garland and Watherston'. The younger Brogden, the son of Thomas Brogden and presumably a relative of the founder, served an apprenticeship to J.W. garland as a goldsmith and jeweller from 1834 to 1841. Following Garland's departure, the remaining partner, J.H. Watherston, removed the firm to new premises at 16 Henrietta Street, Covent Garden and in 1848 joined forces with the younger Brogden.
Bibliographic reference
Huits, Lieske. "At Once 'Ancient' and 'Modern': The Art-Journal's Illustrated Catalogues and the Notion of Adaptation in Nineteenth-Century Historicism", Nineteenth-Century Art Worldwide 21, no. 3 (Autumn 2022), https://doi.org/10.29411/ncaw.2022.21.3.2.
Collection
Accession number
E.2:537-1986

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Record createdFebruary 1, 2011
Record URL
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