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Textile

18th century (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

This complete, unused length of silk and gold fabric is a fine example of the ikat textiles for which the Deccan region of southern India was traditionally renowned. Ikat is still made today in the region of Hyderabad, the area's major city. The arrowhead pattern is one of the simplest, but most effective, of ikat designs, and is created by resist-dyeing the warp threads and then manipulating them after they have been set up on the loom but before they are woven. This type of pattern is often seen on a type of fabric called mashru, which is a silk and cotton mixture with a satin weave. This is a more luxurious fabric than mashru, however, as it uses all silk and no cotton, with additional strips of pure gold woven into the cloth. It would have been used to make a robe or other garment for formal wear at one of the Deccani courts, probably that of Hyderabad.


Object details

Object type
Materials and techniques
Gold strips and silk; warp ikat
Brief description
Length of silk and gold fabric, warp - ikat dyed. Probably Hyderabad, Deccan, 18th century.
Physical description
Complete length of silk and gold fabric, warp - ikat dyed.
Dimensions
  • Top edge width: 1088mm
  • Bottom edge width: 1090mm
  • Proper right length: 2485mm
  • Proper left length: 2500mm
  • Weighed on roller weight: 11.5kg
Production typeUnique
Gallery label
IKAT FABRIC In the ikat technique, yarns are tie-dyed according to the design before they are woven into cloth. Ikat fabrics with striking chevron (V-shaped) patterns were popular in the Muslim courts of the Deccan plateau in south India. The added strips of gilded silver contribute to this fabric's elegant appearance for courtly use. Silk (warp ikat) with gilded silver strip Probably Hyderabad, Andhra Pradesh/Telangana, about 1800 Given by Mr and Mrs Praful Shah V&A: 15.4-1999(03/10/2015-10/01/2016)
Credit line
Given by Mr and Mrs Praful Shah
Production
Probably made in Hyderabad, Deccan, India
Summary
This complete, unused length of silk and gold fabric is a fine example of the ikat textiles for which the Deccan region of southern India was traditionally renowned. Ikat is still made today in the region of Hyderabad, the area's major city. The arrowhead pattern is one of the simplest, but most effective, of ikat designs, and is created by resist-dyeing the warp threads and then manipulating them after they have been set up on the loom but before they are woven. This type of pattern is often seen on a type of fabric called mashru, which is a silk and cotton mixture with a satin weave. This is a more luxurious fabric than mashru, however, as it uses all silk and no cotton, with additional strips of pure gold woven into the cloth. It would have been used to make a robe or other garment for formal wear at one of the Deccani courts, probably that of Hyderabad.
Collection
Accession number
IS.4-1999

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Record createdOctober 11, 1999
Record URL
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