Brooch thumbnail 1
Not currently on display at the V&A

Brooch

1650-1750 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

The ring brooch was the most important piece of jewellery in Norwegian traditional dress. There are well over 50 different names for brooches in Norwegian, and each kind of brooch has its own distinctive name, some of which date back to the Middle Ages. Ring brooches differ from modern brooches in the way they fasten. The wearer pulls the cloth of the garment through the central hole, and then spears it with the pin. The greater the strain on the pin, the more secure the fastening.

A horvesølje or taggesølje (barbed ring brooch) is made of cast metal, and is characterised by its small protruding prongs or studs. Horvesøljer were most common around 1700, when they are often mentioned in inventories, but were no longer made by the 19th century, when they seem to have gone out of fashion. They were mainly worn in the area around Tinn, but versions were also found in other places in Telemark, and in Setesdal.

This ring brooch was described as Norwegian, from the seventeenth century, when it was acquired by the Museum in 1957.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Cast silver with applied granules
Brief description
Flat silver ring brooch (horvesølje or taggesølje)with applied granules and prongs, Telemark (Norway), 1650-1750.
Physical description
Circular cast silver ring brooch, consisting of two concentric rings with an openwork pattern of six trefoils joining them together. The rings are grooved on the front, so that they look as if they are made of coiled wire, and the trefoils are decorated with applied granules and short rods sticking up vertically from the face. There is a short triangular tang hooked on to the inner ring and decorated with scratched chevrons.
Dimensions
  • Depth: 0.5cm
  • Diameter: 4.6cm
Credit line
Given by Miss E. J. Begg
Production
Possibly made during the 18th century
Summary
The ring brooch was the most important piece of jewellery in Norwegian traditional dress. There are well over 50 different names for brooches in Norwegian, and each kind of brooch has its own distinctive name, some of which date back to the Middle Ages. Ring brooches differ from modern brooches in the way they fasten. The wearer pulls the cloth of the garment through the central hole, and then spears it with the pin. The greater the strain on the pin, the more secure the fastening.

A horvesølje or taggesølje (barbed ring brooch) is made of cast metal, and is characterised by its small protruding prongs or studs. Horvesøljer were most common around 1700, when they are often mentioned in inventories, but were no longer made by the 19th century, when they seem to have gone out of fashion. They were mainly worn in the area around Tinn, but versions were also found in other places in Telemark, and in Setesdal.

This ring brooch was described as Norwegian, from the seventeenth century, when it was acquired by the Museum in 1957.
Collection
Accession number
M.25-1957

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Record createdNovember 1, 2005
Record URL
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