Bodice Fastener thumbnail 1
Not currently on display at the V&A

Bodice Fastener

1830-1879 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Although traditional jewellery was worn throughout Sweden, and has a distinct Swedish character, there are marked differences between the different provinces. Skåne province, in the extreme south of Sweden, has the richest tradition, and more jewellery was worn there than in any other district. Almost all the Swedish traditional jewellery at the V&A comes from Skåne.

Bodice fasteners originated in the Middle Ages, as a way of fastening the front opening of the bodice. Women made holes on either side of the bodice, and then laced them together with a cord running through the holes, in the same way that people still lace their shoes. Because of their prominent position on the front of the costume, the holes were often decorated with embroidery, or replaced with silver eyelets or bodice fasteners, like these.

Most Swedish bodice fasteners are made of cast or stamped silver, rather than filigree like these. They all have a gap at one side of the design, to leave room for the chain which links them together, but by the 19th century they were purely decorative, not functional. They were only worn with festive dress. On working days women fastened their bodice with plain hooks.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Silver gilt with filigree decoration
Brief description
Silver-gilt bodice fastener (malja) with filigree decoration, Skåne (Sweden), 1830-1879.
Physical description
Set of four silver bodice fasteners, gilded on the front, made from a circle of plain wire with a domed open filigree rosette partly covering the central space. The rosette has five petals, and one more has been omitted to provide space for the cord. There is a small filigree button in the centre.
Dimensions
  • Height: 1.6cm
  • Diameter: 3.4cm
Marks and inscriptions
  • 'P.W' in rectangular frame. (Twice on ring.)
    Translation
    Mark of Peter Magnus Wallengren, of Ystad.
  • illegible creature (On ring.)
    Translation
    Town mark of Ystad
Subject depicted
Summary
Although traditional jewellery was worn throughout Sweden, and has a distinct Swedish character, there are marked differences between the different provinces. Skåne province, in the extreme south of Sweden, has the richest tradition, and more jewellery was worn there than in any other district. Almost all the Swedish traditional jewellery at the V&A comes from Skåne.

Bodice fasteners originated in the Middle Ages, as a way of fastening the front opening of the bodice. Women made holes on either side of the bodice, and then laced them together with a cord running through the holes, in the same way that people still lace their shoes. Because of their prominent position on the front of the costume, the holes were often decorated with embroidery, or replaced with silver eyelets or bodice fasteners, like these.

Most Swedish bodice fasteners are made of cast or stamped silver, rather than filigree like these. They all have a gap at one side of the design, to leave room for the chain which links them together, but by the 19th century they were purely decorative, not functional. They were only worn with festive dress. On working days women fastened their bodice with plain hooks.
Associated objects
Collection
Accession number
537-1886

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Record createdNovember 1, 2005
Record URL
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