Cross thumbnail 1
Cross thumbnail 2
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Image of Gallery in South Kensington
On display at V&A South Kensington
Europe 1600-1815, Room 1

Cross

1809-1819 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Crosses are the most distinctive element in French traditional jewellery. Every French woman had one. They usually wore them on a black velvet ribbon, fastened tightly round the neck like a choker, with a slide at the front. The ribbon passes through the bale of the cross, and is then threaded through a hole or loop at the base of the slide, and out at either side. The ribbon is tied in a bow at the back of the neck.

Normandy has the greatest variety of crosses, some so elaborate as to be almost unrecognisable. The croix de Saint-Lô, also called a croix quadrille from its lozenge shape, has a cast openwork frame decorated with five conical mounts set with rock crystals, with smaller stones set around them. It is the earliest of the characteristic Normandy crosses to have stones.

Croix de Saint-Lô were usually made of silver in the 19th century. Gold ones, like this, are usually from the 18th or very early 19th century. They were originally always worn with a matching slide, but these are often lost. The slide on this cross was made in Normandy in the early 19th century, but does not match the cross precisely, and was made by a different maker.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Open gold tracery set with rock crystals
Brief description
Pendant cross of gold tracery (croix de Saint-Lô) set with rock crystals, Normandy (France), 1809-1819.
Physical description
Stylised cross made from a lozenge-shaped sheet of gold, pierced in a floral design, and set with tiny faceted rock crystals, with four high conical mounts set on top with larger crystals. The lowest part of the cross is hung from the lower edge of the main body. There is a long hook at the back of the top. The cross is attached by wire to a heart-shaped pierced slide, which is also set with numerous small crystals, with a heart-shaped raised mount set with larger crystals in the centre. It is similar to the cross, but does not match exactly. There are two vertical bars on the back of the slide.
Dimensions
  • Cross height: 109mm
  • Cross width: 86mm
  • Cross depth: 19mm
  • Slide height: 34mm
  • Slide width: 32mm
  • Slide depth: 12mm
Marks and inscriptions
  • Cockerel's head facing right in a shaped frame. (On suspension loop at back of cross.)
    Translation
    Restricted warranty mark for gold, Provinces, 1809-1819.
  • Partial mark of 'JH' below a comma shape, in a vertical lozenge. (On suspension loop at back of cross.)
    Translation
    Mark of unidentified maker.
  • Partial mark of 'BG' below a six-pointed star, in a vertical lozenge. (On loop at back of heart.)
    Translation
    Probably the mark of B. Gosselin of Louviers.
Subject depicted
Summary
Crosses are the most distinctive element in French traditional jewellery. Every French woman had one. They usually wore them on a black velvet ribbon, fastened tightly round the neck like a choker, with a slide at the front. The ribbon passes through the bale of the cross, and is then threaded through a hole or loop at the base of the slide, and out at either side. The ribbon is tied in a bow at the back of the neck.

Normandy has the greatest variety of crosses, some so elaborate as to be almost unrecognisable. The croix de Saint-Lô, also called a croix quadrille from its lozenge shape, has a cast openwork frame decorated with five conical mounts set with rock crystals, with smaller stones set around them. It is the earliest of the characteristic Normandy crosses to have stones.

Croix de Saint-Lô were usually made of silver in the 19th century. Gold ones, like this, are usually from the 18th or very early 19th century. They were originally always worn with a matching slide, but these are often lost. The slide on this cross was made in Normandy in the early 19th century, but does not match the cross precisely, and was made by a different maker.
Collection
Accession number
69-1869

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Record createdNovember 1, 2005
Record URL
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