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Salut de Schiaparelli

Photograph
1934 (photographed), 1988 (printed)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Ilse Bing (1899-1998) was one of several leading women photographers in the inter-war period. Born into a Jewish family in Frankfurt, she initially pursued an academic career before moving to Paris in 1930 to concentrate on photography. The photograph ‘Salut de Schiaparelli’ (Lily Perfume) was one of Ilse Bing’s (1899-1998) fashion assignments for the designer label Schiaparelli. Elsa Schiaparelli was a very popular designer in the 1930s who had close ties to the Parisian artistic community. In the early 1930s Bing had begun to take commissions for fashion photography and was published in magazines such as Paris Vogue, Adam and Marchal. This photograph was later published by the photographer and critic Emmanuel Sougez as part of an article and portfolio of Bing’s work in L’Art Vivant in 1934.

Bing experimented with solarisation from 1934 at the same time as Man Ray (1890-1976) and Lee Miller (1907-1977), although she claimed that she discovered the technique independently of them. Solarisation happens when negatives are exposed to light in the darkroom during developing and printing, producing partly reversed images. The technique adds to the dreaminess of the image, and the woman, reclining with eyes shut, appears to float on a bed of abstracted lilies.


Object details

Category
Object type
TitleSalut de Schiaparelli (assigned by artist)
Materials and techniques
Gelatin-silver print from solarised negative
Brief description
'Salut de Schiaparelli', photograph by Ilse Bing (1899-1998), 1934 printed 1988
Physical description
In this image we can see a woman reclining amoungst flowers.
Dimensions
  • Image height: 32.8cm
  • Image width: 26.4cm
  • Sheet height: 35.4cm
  • Sheet width: 27.5cm
Style
Marks and inscriptions
  • 'ILSE BING / 1934' (Written in pencil on reverse by artist)
  • '"Salut de Schiaparelli"' (Written in pencil on reverse by artist)
  • 'Sol neg' (Written in pencil on reverse by artist)
  • 'pr 1988' (Written in pencil on reverse by artist)
  • 'ILSE BING 1934' (artist's signature, white ink, top left)
Gallery label
‘Selling Dreams: One Hundred Years of Fashion Photography’, 2014. Label text: Ilse Bing (1899–1998) Salut de Schiaparelli Perfume advertisement, 1934 Ilse Bing was one of the first photographers to adopt the revolutionary small-format Leica camera. Her images frequently include steep perspectives, off-centre compositions and closely cropped details. Fashion designer Elsa Schiaparelli commissioned Bing to produce the advertising images for her lily-scented perfume 'Salut', a fragrance intended to complement Schiaparelli's range of chic sportswear. Gelatin silver print from solarised negative, printed 1988 Given by Ilse Bing Wolff Museum no. E.3073-2004 (07 03 2014)
Credit line
Bequeathed by Ilse Bing Wolff
Subject depicted
Summary
Ilse Bing (1899-1998) was one of several leading women photographers in the inter-war period. Born into a Jewish family in Frankfurt, she initially pursued an academic career before moving to Paris in 1930 to concentrate on photography. The photograph ‘Salut de Schiaparelli’ (Lily Perfume) was one of Ilse Bing’s (1899-1998) fashion assignments for the designer label Schiaparelli. Elsa Schiaparelli was a very popular designer in the 1930s who had close ties to the Parisian artistic community. In the early 1930s Bing had begun to take commissions for fashion photography and was published in magazines such as Paris Vogue, Adam and Marchal. This photograph was later published by the photographer and critic Emmanuel Sougez as part of an article and portfolio of Bing’s work in L’Art Vivant in 1934.

Bing experimented with solarisation from 1934 at the same time as Man Ray (1890-1976) and Lee Miller (1907-1977), although she claimed that she discovered the technique independently of them. Solarisation happens when negatives are exposed to light in the darkroom during developing and printing, producing partly reversed images. The technique adds to the dreaminess of the image, and the woman, reclining with eyes shut, appears to float on a bed of abstracted lilies.
Bibliographic reference
Ilse Bing: Three decades of photographyNancy C. Barrett (New Orleans Museum of Art, 1985)
Collection
Accession number
E.3073-2004

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Record createdOctober 31, 2005
Record URL
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