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Bodice

Bodice

  • Place of origin:

    New York, USA (made)

  • Date:

    1895 (made)

  • Artist/Maker:

    L. Guiquin (maker)

  • Materials and Techniques:

    Embroidered silk satin with metal beads, trimmed with sequined net, lined with silk and whalebone

  • Credit Line:

    Given by Major and Mrs Broughton

  • Museum number:

    T.271&A-1972

  • Gallery location:

    Fashion, room 40, case CA6, shelf FIG5

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Enormous sleeves swell out from the bodice of this day dress. They create an exaggerated shoulder line and emphasise the smallness of the wearer’s waist. Known as ‘gigot’ (‘leg-of-mutton’) sleeves, they were highly fashionable between 1894 and 1896 when women adopted them for all types of activities and occasions. The basic shape was similar to that of sleeves during the 1830s. Like those sleeves they rapidly diminished in size after a few years.

Physical description

Bodice and fragment of sleeve fabric of embroidered brown silk satin.
[Bodice] Bodice of silk satin decorated with raised embroidery and metal beads, and trimmed with black sequined net. Lined with silk and whalebone strips. It has a high stand collar trimmed at the back with a brown silk satin bow. The black waistband is also finished with a bow at the front and back. The raised embroidery is in a floral pattern.
[fragment] Fragment piece of sleeve fabric of silk satin embroidered with silk and metal beads.

Place of Origin

New York, USA (made)

Date

1895 (made)

Artist/maker

L. Guiquin (maker)

Materials and Techniques

Embroidered silk satin with metal beads, trimmed with sequined net, lined with silk and whalebone

Marks and inscriptions

[Bodice] 'CLB's 1895'

Object history note

This bodice was owned by Cara Broughton, née Cara Leland Huttleston Rogers (1867-1939), who married Urban Hanlon Broughton (1857-1929) in 1895. As Urban H. Broughton died before he could be elevated to a peerage, their eldest son Urban H.R. Broughton (1896-1966) became 1st Baron Fairhaven of Lode on 20 March 1929, while Cara became 1st Lady Fairhaven. This barony became extinct on Urban H.R.Broughton's death, but a later barony, Baron Fairhaven of Anglesey Abbey, co. Cambridge, was granted to him in 1961, with a remainder to his brother, Henry (1900-1973), to enable this title to continue after his death without male heirs.

This forms part of a large donation of late 19th and early 20th century garments and accessories (with a few historical textiles) donated to the Museum in 1972 by Cara's grandson and Henry's son, Major Ailwyn Broughton and his wife, a year before Ailwyn became Lord Fairhaven following his father's death.

Some of the nineteenth century garments are thought to have been worn by Cara's sister, Anne (1865-1924).

Descriptive line

Bodice and sleeve fragment of embroidered silk satin, made by L. Guiquin, New York, 1895

Categories

Textiles; Embroidery; Fashion; Women's clothes

Collection code

T&F

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Qr_O117725
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