Pérou
Cocktail Dress
1954 (designed)
1954 (designed)
| Artist/Maker | |
| Place of origin |
This dress comes from Christian Dior's (1905-57) H-Line collection of autumn/winter 1954-55. The H-Line was one of Dior’s most controversial silhouettes, and the press debated whether it should stand for ‘Heavenly’ or ‘Horrid’.
The design of the H-Line deliberately flattened the bosom to create a moulded, elongated shape that many found unfeminine. Dior maintained that it was inspired by Tudor dress, this influence can be seen here in the rich geometric embroidery of this dress.
The dress was worn with a gold satin coat, originally designed with a dark fur lining.
The design of the H-Line deliberately flattened the bosom to create a moulded, elongated shape that many found unfeminine. Dior maintained that it was inspired by Tudor dress, this influence can be seen here in the rich geometric embroidery of this dress.
The dress was worn with a gold satin coat, originally designed with a dark fur lining.
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Object details
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| Object type | |
| Parts | This object consists of 2 parts.
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| Titles |
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| Materials and techniques | Satin with silver thread embroidery and couched gold metal thread, lined with silk organza |
| Brief description | Pérouevening coat and dress, gold silk satin embroidered in metal thread, Christian Dior, haute couture autumn/winter 1954, 'H' line, Paris, France |
| Physical description | Evening dress of heavy gold satin entirely covered with embroidery in gold metal thread and couched gold metal thread of decorative interlocking hexagons around embroidered flowers of silver metal thread. The dress is below knee-length with straight cut top which flattens the bosom, shoulder straps and a panelled front. The sides and back of the bodice are stitched down to a partial peplum around the hips, with the skirt flowing beneath in unpressed pleats. The bodice and skirt are lined in white silk organza but the yoke of the skirt in unlined. The dress fastens with a centre back zip and the skirt with press studs and hooks and eyes. |
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| Production type | Haute couture |
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| Gallery label |
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| Credit line | Given by Cecil Beaton |
| Object history | Worn by Madame Lopez-Willshaw. An identical model was worn at the showing of Dior's Autumn/winter 1954-1955 H line collection to Princess Margaret at Blenheim Palace on 3 November 1954. |
| Historical context | Mme. Arturo Lopez-Willshaw (Patricia), Chilean-born hostess, style leader; Paris. Pronounced 'International Best-Dressed Woman' by Vanity Fair in 1960. |
| Subject depicted | |
| Summary | This dress comes from Christian Dior's (1905-57) H-Line collection of autumn/winter 1954-55. The H-Line was one of Dior’s most controversial silhouettes, and the press debated whether it should stand for ‘Heavenly’ or ‘Horrid’. The design of the H-Line deliberately flattened the bosom to create a moulded, elongated shape that many found unfeminine. Dior maintained that it was inspired by Tudor dress, this influence can be seen here in the rich geometric embroidery of this dress. The dress was worn with a gold satin coat, originally designed with a dark fur lining. |
| Associated object | |
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| Collection | |
| Accession number | T.12&A-1977 |
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| Record created | October 18, 2005 |
| Record URL |
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