This dress, designed by Christian Dior (1905-57) in 1956, is short and strapless in midnight-blue velvet with delicate embroidery by Rébé, which includes velvet birds’ nests with clusters of pearl eggs.
The dress is simply cut, to show off its sumptuous surface detail. Such embellishment required meticulous patience for, as Dior explained, ‘a ball dress may be entirely covered with millions of paillettes, or pearls, each one of which has to be put on separately’.
Physical description
Strapless and short sheath evening dress of dark royal blue velvet with embroidery of gold thread, sequins, pearls and green and blue pastes in a design of sprays and tendrils springing from nests of pearls in velvet.
The dress has two attached petticoats, one of black net and one of navy blue silk, and the net liner bodice is boned. There is a zip down the back of the dress and the inner bodice fastens with hooks and eyes.
Place of Origin
Paris, France (made)
Date
1956 (made)
Artist/maker
Dior, born 1905 - died 1957 (designer)
Rébé (embroiderer)
Materials and Techniques
Embroidered velvet with gold thread, sequins, pearls and pastes, and net, silk and boned
Marks and inscriptions
'Christian Dior Paris Automne-Hiver 1956 84193'
Dimensions
Circumference: 66 cm waist, Circumference: 80 cm bust
Object history note
The dress was originally designed with a plain velvet bolero, which was not given.
Worn by Mrs Eugenia Niarchos and given by Mr Stavros Niarchos III
Descriptive line
Strapless sheath evening dress 'Bosphore' from 'La Ligne Aimant ' in embroidered velvet, designed by Christian Dior, embroidered by Rébé, Paris, 1956
Bibliographic References (Citation, Note/Abstract, NAL no)
Wilcox, C., ed., The Golden Age of Couture: Paris and London 1947-57 (V&A Publications, London: 2007), p.136 and pl.5.18.
Dresses selected for embroidery were usually of simple cut and reliant on sumptuous surface detail to bring them to life. Dior's 'Bosphore' evening dress of 1956 is short and strapless in midnight-blue velvet with delicate embroidery by Rébé, which, on closer inspection, reveals velvet birds' nests with clusters of pearl eggs.
Wilcox, C., ed., The Golden Age of Couture: Paris and London 1947-57 (V&A Publications, London: 2007), p.167 and pl.7.11.
Eugenia Niarchos (1926-70) was one of the Livanos sisters, married to the Greek ship owner, Stavros Niarchos. She was the perfect couture client - beautiful, stylish and exceedingly rich. Beaton had written to Pope-Hennessy that Mme Stavros Niarchos was 'about the only person who could afford to order one of the incredibly beaded dresses that Dior has designed'. Beaton did indeed manage to persuade her to donate her Dior dress, which thankfully she had 'never had the heart to throw away', although she added, 'but I'm afraid they ain't too fresh-looking'. She died on the island of Spetsopoula in May 1970 in mysterious circumstances, and Niarchos then married her sister Athina, later Marchioness of Blandford. After Eugenia's death, Niarchos honoured her promise to Beton and handed over 19 items, including pieces by Balenciaga, Courreges, Desses, Dior , Roger Vivier and Ungaro - most notably Dior's intricately embroidered 'Bosphore' dress of 1956. When I visited Beaton's 1971 exhibition as a youngster, I remember being struck by how small she must have been. The clothes made her sad story seem all the more real.
Exhibition History
The Golden Age of Couture. Paris and London 1947 - 1957 (Victoria and Albert Museum 22/09/2007-06/01/2008)
Fashion: an anthology by Cecil Beaton (Victoria and Albert Museum 01/01/1972-31/12/1972)
Labels and date
EMBROIDERY
Paris was the home of a luxury trade in fashion goods. Entire streets were devoted to glove makers, shoe makers and furriers while feathers, floral accessories and ribbon work were worked by hand in small workshops, much as they had been since the 18th century.
Embroidery specialists created a range of samples each season. Once selected, a design remained for the exclusive use of the couturier. Hubert de Givenchy said these samples served as ‘the springboard to creation’.
Gowns that were to be embroidered were usually simply cut to show off their sumptuous surface detail. Their embellishment required meticulous patience, for as Dior explained, ‘a ball dress may be entirely covered with millions of paillettes, or pearls, each one of which has to be put on separately’.
'Bosphore' short evening dress
Christian Dior (1905-57)
Paris
1956 autumn/winter
The midnight blue velvet has delicate embroidery by Rébé which, on closer inspection, reveals velvet birds' nests with clusters of pearl eggs.
Silk velvet, embroidered by Rébé with pearls, gold thread and cabochons
Worn by Mrs Eugenia Niarchos and given by Mr Stavros Niarchos III
V&A: T.119-1974 [22/09/2007]
Associated names
Cecil Beaton
Production Note
The Aimant (Magnet) line
Materials
Velvet; Paste; Gold thread; Pearls
Techniques
Embroidering
Subjects depicted
Flowers; Nest
Categories
Embroidery; Fashion; Evening wear; Women's clothes
Production Type
Haute couture
Collection code
T&F
