This evening dress of silk satin and velvet, designed by Christian Dior (1905-57), is constructed in two parts. The tight-fitting top is attached to the skirt with a series of complex fastenings. The skirt itself is very full and heavy, with panels of integral silk velvet that create the appearance of a massive bow, which Dior described as the 'natural ornament' of a dress.
The dress is typical of Dior's collections of the time, which featured flying panels and protruding angles.
Physical description
Evening dress consisting of a bodice and skirt of black silk satin, silk and velvet.
[Evening skirt] Skirt is full and flared. It is trimmed with a large black velvet bow on one hip. There is an attached petticoat of black silk and stiffened net. The skirt fastens with an inner and an outer zip.
[Evening bodice] Fitted bodice and strapless with a black velvet trim along the top. It is boned and fastens at the back with hooks and eyes.
Place of Origin
Paris, France (made)
Date
1949-1950 (made)
Artist/maker
Dior, born 1905 - died 1957 (designer)
Bianchini-Férier (Silk velvet and faille, manufacturer)
Materials and Techniques
Silk satin, silk, net and velvet
Marks and inscriptions
[Evening bodice] 'CHRISTIAN DIOR PARIS 07232 MADE IN FRANCE'
Dimensions
[Evening skirt] Circumference: 59 cm waist, Circumference: 200 cm hem
[Evening bodice] Circumference: cm bust
Object history note
Worn and given by Baroness Antoinette de Ginsbourg
Descriptive line
Strapless evening dress 'Cygne Noir' from 'La Ligne Milieu du Siecle', consisting of a bodice and skirt of silk satin and velvet, designed by Christian Dior, textiles supplied by Bianchini-Férier, Paris, 1949-1950
Bibliographic References (Citation, Note/Abstract, NAL no)
Christian Dior: Man of the Century (Musee Christian Dior: Editions Artlys, 2005), p.120
Image of the version held by the Met, NY
de Rethy, E., Christian Dior: The Early Years 1947-1957 (Thames & Hudson, 2001), p.43
Sketch by Monsieur Dior and drawing from the design department.
Miller, L., 'Perfect Harmony' in Wilcox, C., ed., The Golden Age of Couture: Paris and London 1947-57 (V&A Publications, 2007), p.121 & pl.5.5
While manufacturers advertised independently in Vogue, they also engaged in 'tie-ins' with couturiers. In spreads that grew in ambition and number, photographs of particular dresses from named couture houses in textiles from named manufacturers appeared at the beginning of a magazine. Often the text was simple, merely indicating the name of the couturier, and the name of the textile and its manufacturer. For example, in Autumn/Winter 1949, in the same advertisement Dior and Balenciaga used self-coloured velvet and faille from the silk manufacturers Bianchini Férier of Lyons for two evening dresses (pl.5.4). A black evening dress, 'Cygne Noir' ('Black Swan'), in Dior's Autumn/Winter collection of 1949-50, is surely made from silk velvet and faille from these manufacturers and reveals the glorious crisp quality of the textiles (pl.5.5). It contrasts with an elaborate Dior evening gown, in machine-embroidered velvet by the Swiss firm of Abraham et Cie., which appeared in British Vogue in 1958 (pl.5.16).
Dior Archives, Paris
The house photograph shows the dress modelled with full-length black satin evening gloves, necklace, brooch and earrings. The caption reads:
CHRISTIAN DIOR. Automn Hiver 1949-50. Mode MILIEU DU SIECLE.
CYGNE NOIR: Robe de soir en satin noir et velours noir.
Exhibition History
The Golden Age of Couture. Paris and London 1947 - 1957 (Victoria and Albert Museum 22/09/2007-06/01/2008)
Fashion: an anthology by Cecil Beaton (Victoria and Albert Museum 01/01/1972-31/12/1972)
Christian Dior: Man of the Century (Musee Christian Dior 01/01/2005-31/12/2005)
Labels and date
'Cygne Noir' (Black Swan) evening dress (robe grand soir)
Christian Dior (1905-57)
Paris
1949-50 autumn/winter, Ligne Milieu du Siècle
This imposing gown is from Dior's sixth collection. He wrote of this time, 'A golden age seemed to have come again. War had passed out of sight and there were no other wars on the horizon. What did the weight of my sumptuous materials, my heavy velvets and brocades, matter? When hearts were light, mere fabrics could not weight the body down.'
Silk velvet and faille, supplied by Bianchini Férier
Given by Baroness Antoinette de Ginsbourg
V&A: T.117&A-1974 [22/09/2007-06/01/2008]
Associated names
Cecil Beaton
Materials
Silk; Velvet; Satin
Categories
Fashion; Evening wear; Women's clothes
Production Type
Haute couture
Collection code
T&F
