Christian Dior (1905-57) launched his couture house in February 1947. Although known for the heavy corsetting and complicated construction of his early collections, not all of Dior's designs relied on complex underpinnings.
This lightweight, unlined dress achieves volume through a draped skirt. Dior typically countered the close fitting bodice with Magyar sleeves, which gave ease of movement. The dress has no label and may have been a version of the original by Christian Dior New York, which Dior launched in 1948.
Physical description
Day dress consisting of a jacket and skirt made from green silk twill foulard with small white spots. The bodice has a tailored collar with lapels, long batwing sleeves, and tightly fitting at the wrist. It is tightly fitted at the waist and has a centre front fastening of three covered buttons. The skirt is softly gathered at the waistband and is straight cut. 'New Look' length. It is full at the front with two vertical open insets. It has a centre back zip fastening. It has a triangular handkerchief attached at the front and arranged to drape behind.
Place of Origin
France (made)
Date
1947 (made)
Artist/maker
Dior, born 1905 - died 1957 (designer)
Materials and Techniques
Silk twill foulard
Marks and inscriptions
No label
Dimensions
Weight: .48 kg, Length: 89 cm skirt, Diameter: 45 cm footprint
Object history note
This dress is from Dior's s/s 1947 'New Look' collection.
It was worn and given by Mrs Joseph Alsop (nee Susan Mary Patten), the wife of the the American journalist (Joseph Wright Alsop V, 1910-89). They were married from 1960 to 1972. They had no children.
(See Merry, Robert W. Taking on the World: Joseph and Stewart Alsop – Guardians of the American Century (New York: 1996), p.360-365.
Historical context note
THE NEW LOOK panel text from The Golden Age of Couture: Paris and London 1947-1957
Dior launched his new house on 12 February 1947 and became an overnight sensation. His voluptuous collection was the antithesis of lean, boxy wartime fashions. Instead, feminine designs featured rounded shoulders, a womanly bust and a hand-span waist above enormous skirts. It was christened on the spot by Carmel Snow, editor of American Harper's Bazaar, as the 'New Look'.
The amount of fabric required to create a New Look garment - typically 15 metres in a woollen day dress, 25 metres in a short taffeta evening gown - caused outrage, for rationing was still in place. The collection was shown in secret to Princess Margaret at the French Embassy in London. But despite attempts by the Board of Trade to suppress it, the New Look was unstoppable.
Descriptive line
'Green' day dress consisting of a jacket and skirt, 'New Look' from 'Corolle et en Huit', made from silk twill foulard, designed by Christian Dior, France, 1947
Bibliographic References (Citation, Note/Abstract, NAL no)
Rothstein, N., ed., '400 Years of Fashion' (London: Victoria and Albert Museum, 1984), p.91
"Two vital assets from Dior's first year are 'Maxim', a black woollen luncheon dress, and 'Miss New York' a spotted silk day dress with a 'bustle' drape.
British Vogue, April 1947, p.49
Illustration with note: "Kerchief back drapery"
Keenan, B., Dior in Vogue (London: 1981), p.36
Image and "The silk surah day dress (right), had a scarf drapery at the back of the full skirt".
Wilcox, C., ed., The Golden Age of Couture: Paris and London 1947-1957 (V&A Publications, London: 2007), pl. 2.10
Illustration
www.timelifepictures.com Ref no: 50768891
Image by Pat English (taken March 1947), with caption Christian Dior Style Show, featuring a pure silk dress with draped derriere scarf across back.
Exhibition History
The Golden Age of Couture. Paris and London 1947 - 1957 (Victoria and Albert Museum 22/09/2007-06/01/2008)
Fashion: an anthology by Cecil Beaton (Victoria and Albert Museum 01/01/1971-31/12/1971)
Labels and date
'Green' afternoon ensemble
Christian Dior (1905-57)
Paris
1947 spring/summer
Not all of Dior's first collections relied on complex underpinnings. This lightweight, unlined dress achieves volume through a draped skirt. Dior typically countered his close fitting bodices with Magyar sleeves, which gave ease of movement. The dress has no label and may have been a version of the original by Christian Dior New York, which Dior launched in 1948. [59 words]
Skirt and blouse: silk
Hat: imitation straw with velvet flowers inside
Skirt and blouse given by Mrs Joseph Alsop
V&A: T.115&A-1974
Hat worn by Mrs Opal Holt and given by Mrs D.M. Haynes and Mrs M. Clark
V&A: T.155-1982 [22/09/2007]
Associated names
Cecil Beaton
Production Note
Spring/Summer 1947
Attribution note: Possibly. It is also possible that this could be a ready-to-wear version - there is no label, and the inside is crudely finished.
Materials
Silk twill
Techniques
Weaving
Categories
Fashion; Day wear; Women's clothes
Production Type
Haute couture
Collection code
T&F
