Not currently on display at the V&A

Costume Design

1949 (designed)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Great Britain’s leading theatre designer from the early 1930s to the mid 1950s, Oliver Messel (1904-1978) won international acclaim for his lavish, painterly and poetic designs informed by period styles. His work spans ballet, drama, film, musical, opera and revue. Messel’s traditional style of theatre design became unfashionable from the mid 1950s onwards, and he increasingly concentrated on painting, interior and textile design, including designing luxury homes in the Caribbean.

Messel’s painterly and poetic interpretation of medieval period costume and architecture complemented Christopher Fry’s verse play, The Lady’s Not For Burning (1949), about a woman wrongly accused of witchcraft in a small English market town around 1400. Fry's first play to be presented at a West End theatre, it won critical acclaim; one critic hailed it as ‘a poetic fantasy of rare splendour and delight.’ (The Times, 10 November 1950).

Nicholas Devize, an argumentative young man in love with this brother's fiancée, was played by Daniel Evans.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Watercolour on paper
Brief description
Costume design by Oliver Messel for Nicholas in Christopher Fry's play The Lady's Not For Burning, Globe Theatre, 1949.
Physical description
Costume design by Oliver Messel for Nicholas in Christopher Fry's play The Lady's Not For Burning, 1949. Full length male figure wearing a short purple doublet with light purple sleeves and dark orange tights. He leans on a staff, held in his left hand.
Dimensions
  • Height: 37.7cm
  • Width: 25cm
Production typeDesign
Marks and inscriptions
'Nicolas' (Pencil inscription at top right hand corner..)
Credit line
Acquired with the support of the National Lottery Heritage Fund, Art Fund and the Friends of the V&A
Object history
The Lady’s not for Burning, a verse play in three acts by Christopher Fry. Oliver Messel designed the first production, presented by H. M. Tennent Productions Ltd at the Globe Theatre, London, on 11 May 1949. It was directed by John Gielgud and Esmé Percy and featured John Gielgud as Thomas Mendip, Pamela Brown as Jennet Jourdemayne, Claire Bloom as Alizon Eliot and Richard Burton as Richard. It was also performed at the Royale Theatre, New York, on 8 November 1950.

Lord Snowdon, Oliver Messel's nephew, inherited Messel's theatre designs and other designs and artefacts. The designs were briefly stored in a disused chapel in Kensington Palace before being housed at the V&A from 1981 on indefinite loan. The V&A Theatre Museum purchased the Oliver Messel collection from Lord Snowdon in 2005.

Historical significance: Association with Christopher Fry's abortive poetic drama movement.
Production
Reason For Production: Commission
Summary
Great Britain’s leading theatre designer from the early 1930s to the mid 1950s, Oliver Messel (1904-1978) won international acclaim for his lavish, painterly and poetic designs informed by period styles. His work spans ballet, drama, film, musical, opera and revue. Messel’s traditional style of theatre design became unfashionable from the mid 1950s onwards, and he increasingly concentrated on painting, interior and textile design, including designing luxury homes in the Caribbean.

Messel’s painterly and poetic interpretation of medieval period costume and architecture complemented Christopher Fry’s verse play, The Lady’s Not For Burning (1949), about a woman wrongly accused of witchcraft in a small English market town around 1400. Fry's first play to be presented at a West End theatre, it won critical acclaim; one critic hailed it as ‘a poetic fantasy of rare splendour and delight.’ (The Times, 10 November 1950).

Nicholas Devize, an argumentative young man in love with this brother's fiancée, was played by Daniel Evans.
Bibliographic reference
Pinkham, Roger (ed.) Oliver Messel: an exhibition held at the Theatre Museum, Victoria and Albert Museum, 22 June - 30 September 1983. London: Victoria and Albert Museum, 1983. 200p., ill ISBN 0905209508)
Other number
ROT 1634 - TM Rotation Number
Collection
Accession number
S.3167-2010

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Record createdDecember 17, 2010
Record URL
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