This dress was designed by Christian Dior (1905-57) in 1957, the year of his death. It was commissioned by the Baroness Alain de Rothschild to wear for the state visit of Queen Elizabeth II and Prince Philip to Paris in April 1957. Many grand events were held during the visit, such as dinners at the Louvre, Versailles and the Elysée Palace, and also visits to the opera and races.
The state visit was the highlight of the year's social calendar. Couturiers were inundated with requests for evening gowns and gala dresses from society ladies. Lady Gladwyn, the wife of the British Ambassador, commented in her diaries that even the Queen’s dresses did not compare to the French clothes for grandeur.
This dress was originally much whiter but has unfortunately become dirty with age. It is treated with a stiffening agent that means that it cannot be cleaned.
Physical description
Evening dress of white spotted tulle consisting of a strapless bodice with a full-length gathered skirt. The net of nylon and rayon is swathed around the bodice and there is a tulle fichu collar to add fullness around the shoulders, attached at the front. The bodice is boned and has a cream silk lining and there are several white net petticoats. There is a hook and eye fastening down the centre back.
The dress would have originally had a long satin ribbon tied in a bow attached to the bodice at the point the fichu collar meets. A light green ribbon was added later for photography in September 2006.
Place of Origin
Paris, France (made)
Date
1957 (made)
Artist/maker
Dior, born 1905 - died 1957 (designer)
Dognin (tulle, manufacturer)
Guillemin (ribbon, manufacturer)
Materials and Techniques
Tulle and net of nylon and rayon with satin ribbon, boned, lined with silk
Marks and inscriptions
'Christian Dior Paris Printemps - Ete 1957 / Made in France 85893'
Dimensions
Circumference: 94 cm bust, Circumference: 73 cm waist, Diameter: 100 cm skirt hem
Object history note
Worn by Baroness Alain de Rothschild during the sate visit of Queen Elizabeth and Prince Philip to Paris, April 8-11th 1957.
Cecil Beaton collected several of the dresses worn during the events of this particular state visit – the Queen’s dress, T.264-1974; Lady Gladwyn’s dress, T.173-1974; and Diana Cooper’s dress, T.50-1974.
Descriptive line
Evening dress 'La Ligne Libre' from 'Belgique', of tulle, designed by Christian Dior, tulle made by Dognin and ribbon by Guillemin, Paris, 1957
Bibliographic References (Citation, Note/Abstract, NAL no)
Vogue (French), May 1957, p.64.
Image and:
"En tulle point d'espirit, nylon et rayonne, de Dognin, une robe vaporeuse a la cheville. Le large decollete s'adoucit d'un drape en forme de fichu, noue d'un long ruban de satin de Guillemin. Christian Dior. Rouge a levres Christian Dior."
Vickers, H., 'Cecil Beaton' in Wilcox, C., ed., The Golden Age of Couture: Paris and London 1947-57 (V&A Publications, London), p.165 & pl.7.9.
Her Majesty The Queen donated a 1965 Hardy Amies day ensemble and, to avoid causing ruptures in the world of couture, the Norman Hartnell dress from the April 1957 state visit to Paris, at which Beaton had been a guest. (pl.7.8). He had been invited by Lady Jebb (later Lady Gladwyn), wife of the British Ambassador in Paris, to sketch the return state banquet at which the queen had entertained president René Coty at the British Embassy in Paris. At the time, he had written to his hostess, saying 'The Queen triumphed over Hartnell's bad taste'. Despite this, he was delighted to accept the ivory satin evening dress, encrusted with beads, brilliants and gold. Beaton succeeded in acquiring several other dresses worn during the same visit. Lady Gladwyn donated the lilac lace evening dress [T.173-1974] by French designer, Jacques Fath. Lady Diana Cooper, Lady Gladwyn's (and Beaton's) great friend, donated a strapless Balmain gown of appliqué printed silk satin [T.50-1974]. Baroness Alain de Rothschild (Mary Chauvin de Treuil), the wife of one of the Rothschild banking brothers, gave a white spotted tulle dress by Dior [T.121-1974] (all pl.7.9).
Dior Archives, Paris - Dior's dressmaking charts
The chart shows a sample of the dress fabric. It is bright white.
Exhibition History
Fashion: an anthology by Cecil Beaton (Victoria and Albert Museum 01/01/1972-31/12/1972)
Associated names
Cecil Beaton
Production Note
Spring / Summer 1957
Categories
Royalty; Fashion; Evening wear; Women's clothes
Production Type
Haute couture
Collection code
T&F
