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Riding habit jacket

Riding habit jacket

  • Place of origin:

    England (made)

  • Date:

    1885-1886 (made)

  • Artist/Maker:

    John Redfern & Sons (designer and maker)

  • Materials and Techniques:

    Flannel trimmed with mohair, and lined with sateen

  • Credit Line:

    Given by the Hon. Mrs S. F. Tyser

  • Museum number:

    T.430-1990

  • Gallery location:

    Fashion, Room 40, case CA6, shelf FIG7

For much of the nineteenth century fashionable women wore dark woollen tailored jackets inspired by men's coats. By the 1880s their dress was so similar that some observers noted that from a distance it was difficult to distinguish very young ladies from young gentlemen. This was no doubt helped by the fashion for wearing bowlers, top hats, cravats, waistcoats and trousers under skirts.

Many women's jackets were embellished with details borrowed from military uniform. Braiding was a popular form of decoration inspired by ornamentation on regimental dress as well as the flamboyant hussar designs. This elegant example is based on the regimental patrol jacket characterized by parallel rows of applied braid across the breast, looped at intervals into designs known as 'crow's feet' because of their distinctive shape. Here the rows are shortened, and fanciful whirls at the proper right edge and on the collar do not relate to military models. This imaginative combination of vertical and horizontal trimming emphasizes the length of the bodice rather than its width and ensures that the waist appears relatively small.

The tailoring firm Redfern and Co., made this riding jacket for May Primrose Littledale. They were famous for their sporting costumes, smart tailor-made dresses and coats suited to everyday fashionable wear. During the mid-1880s Redfern incorporated braiding into many of their designs for walking outfits and outdoor jackets. The Queen magazine of 10 May 1884 commented on some particularly striking examples including, 'The "Hungarian" ... lavishly adorned with finest mohair braid, and finished with knotted cords; and the "Polish", of royal blue "faced" cloth ... handsomely braided across the front.' Unfortunately May did not have long to enjoy wearing this jacket as she died soon after it was made.

Physical description

Woman's riding jacket of navy blue flannel trimmed with mohair and lined with sateen. Fastened with hooks and eyes beneath the ornamental loop and button fastening. Braid.

Place of Origin

England (made)

Date

1885-1886 (made)

Artist/maker

John Redfern & Sons (designer and maker)

Materials and Techniques

Flannel trimmed with mohair, and lined with sateen

Object history note

Registered File number 1990/1787.

Descriptive line

Woman's riding jacket of flannel trimmed with mohair and lined with sateen, designed and made by John Redfern & Sons, England, 1885-1886

Materials

Flannel; Mohair; Cotton (textile)

Techniques

Lined; Satin weave; Braided

Categories

Women's clothes; Fashion; Sport; Textiles; Europeana Fashion Project

Collection

Textiles and Fashion Collection

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