Enamelled gold ring, oblong box bezel set with a table-cut pink sapphire, with shaped shoulders, Western Europe, 1550-1600

Ring, gold, enamelled and set with a pink sapphire. The plain hoop with winged shoulders supporting an oblong box bezel chased with double arches and set on a reeded cushion-like base with beaded edge. The bezel is set with a foiled table-cut pink sapphire in a rubbed-over setting. The winged shoulders are enamelled in translucent red and white and bear traces of black enamel. The base of the bezel and the quatrefoil petals retain traces of black enamel.

Purchased as Italian for £11 in 1902.

Historical significance: During the Renaissance, the ring developed from the simple forms of the medieval period into a miniature work of art, combining the skills of the chaser, engraver and enameller as well as the stone cutter. Raised box bezels were complemented by elaborately chased and enamelled shoulders, the colours chosen to enhance the stone.
Cabochon settings remained in use but developments in stone cutting saw the increasing use of table cuts, especially for diamonds and rubies.
The term 'ruby' in the Medieval and Renaissance periods encompassed a number of red stones, including garnets, spinels (known as 'balas' rubies and possibly pink sapphires. Both sapphires and rubies are varieties of the gem mineral corundum, the hardest gemstone after diamond. Sapphire describes any variety of corundum, excluding rubies which take their rich red colour from the presence of chromium. Sapphires may be found in a range of colours ranging from colourless pure corundum to yellows, oranges, pinks, greens and the characteristic blues. Varying amounts and combinations of chromium, titanium and iron cause these colour variations.
Rubies were highly valued in the Renaissance period for their talismanic qualities as well as their colour, which could be improved and flaws disguised by the skilful use of coloured foils behind the stone.

The skills of goldsmith, enameller and gem stone setter have been used to create a miniature work of art. The bezel is set with a pink sapphire and the shoulders were originally brightly enamelled in red, white and black.
Sapphires and rubies are both varieties of the gem mineral corundum. The rich red colour of rubies is created by the presence of chromium whilst sapphires may be found in a range of colours from colourless natural corundum to yellows, pinks, greens and the most highly prized blues. The term 'ruby' was frequently used to describe a number of red gem stones including garnets, spinels and possibly pink sapphires.
Many stones had talismanic or magical qualities. Rubies were believed to protect their wearer from all perils including the loss of land and rank and were valued for this power as well as for their beauty. It is possible that the original owner of this ring believed the stone to be the highly prized ruby rather than a sapphire.

731-1902