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Necklace

1650-1700 (made), 1850-1870 (assembled), 1800-1870 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

This necklace is typical of the kind of jewellery which was bought as a souvenir by English tourists in the 19th century. Although parts of it are old and traditional, it has been put together somewhere in southern Germany, and is not an authentic piece from that area.

The necklace itself is a traditional marriage belt from the Wurttemberg region, and may date from the 17th century, according to the marks on the back of the clasp. It has been converted to a necklace by removing a couple of the links, and closing the hook on the back of the clasp. The two missing links have been added to the front as pendants, and each has received a large filigree object shaped like a bell to finish it off. These filigree pendants are probably Gollermaschen, or collar pendants. They were originally hung from the collar chains used to keep in place the detachable white linen collar which was part of traditional dress in the region. Finally, the converter has drilled a hole through the lower edge of the clasp, now the focus of the front of the necklace, and added a small Swabian buckle from a man’s hat band as a pendant.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Cast silver with silver filigree pendants
Brief description
Silver necklace with two filigree pendants, Wurttemberg (Germany), 1650-1700 (parts) and 1800-1870.
Physical description
Necklace made from several different pieces added together. The main part is a belt of 30 cast rectangular openwork plaques of floral design, alternating with smaller matching plaques, each with a ring on its back to link the main plaques together. There is a larger matching circular plaque in the centre, which was originally the clasp of the belt, but has now had the loop at the back closed so that it does not open. A hole has been drilled through the lower edge of the clasp, from which hangs a cast openwork lozenge-shaped pendant, with an arch over the space in its centre. This was originally a hat buckle, from which the fittings have been removed to convert it into a pendant. At either side of the large circular plaque is a pendant. These each consist of a plaque from the belt, from which hangs a large bell-shaped filigree pendant.
Dimensions
  • Doubled length of belt length: 45.5cm
  • Clasp of belt diameter: 4.1cm
  • Belt depth: 1.6cm
  • Pendant height: 4.8cm
  • Pendant width: 3.7cm
  • Pendant depth: 2.5cm
  • Hat buckle height: 3.2cm
  • Hat buckle width: 4.3cm
  • Hat buckle depth: 1.3cm
Marks and inscriptions
  • prancing horse in a shield-shaped frame (On back of clasp.)
    Translation
    Mark for silver, Stuttgart, late 17th century
  • partial mark, possibly 'J C S' in heart-shaped frame (On back of clasp.)
    Translation
    Mark of unidentified maker
  • long wriggle mark (On back of clasp.)
    Translation
    Used for extracting silver for testing
Summary
This necklace is typical of the kind of jewellery which was bought as a souvenir by English tourists in the 19th century. Although parts of it are old and traditional, it has been put together somewhere in southern Germany, and is not an authentic piece from that area.

The necklace itself is a traditional marriage belt from the Wurttemberg region, and may date from the 17th century, according to the marks on the back of the clasp. It has been converted to a necklace by removing a couple of the links, and closing the hook on the back of the clasp. The two missing links have been added to the front as pendants, and each has received a large filigree object shaped like a bell to finish it off. These filigree pendants are probably Gollermaschen, or collar pendants. They were originally hung from the collar chains used to keep in place the detachable white linen collar which was part of traditional dress in the region. Finally, the converter has drilled a hole through the lower edge of the clasp, now the focus of the front of the necklace, and added a small Swabian buckle from a man’s hat band as a pendant.
Collection
Accession number
101-1872

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Record createdSeptember 22, 2005
Record URL
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