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Necklet

Necklet

  • Place of origin:

    Calcutta, India (probably, made)

  • Date:

    ca. 1850 (made)

  • Artist/Maker:

    Unknown (production)

  • Materials and Techniques:

    Gold, pave-set with pearls and turquoises

  • Museum number:

    03238(IS)

  • Gallery location:

    In Storage

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This necklace, with its gold chain of interlocking scales, is an Indian adaptation of the serpent jewellery that was popular in early Victorian England and was probably made in about 1850. An English serpent necklace or bracelet would usually fasten by looping the articulated scaly body over the reptile's head. On this piece, the chain is in two sections, each terminating in a wolf head. The teeth of each head are enamelled in white, the ears in red, and the eyes are set with rubies. They hold rings between their teeth to which are linked spheres covered with pave-set pearls separated by minute gold granules. Between the pearl-set spheres is a single sphere set with turquoises in the same technique. The clasp is a hook that loops into a ring set on a swivel post.
The necklace was acquired by the Indian Museum in London in 1855 and was transferred to the South Kensington Museum, later renamed the Victoria and Albert Museum, in 1879.

Physical description

The gold necklace has a scale pattern chain in two sections, each terminating in a wolf head linked to three spheres between them. The wolf heads have teeth enamelled in white, ears enamelled in red, and ruby-set eyes. Each head is linked to a sphere with pave set pearls, and there is a third sphere with pave set turquoises in between.

Place of Origin

Calcutta, India (probably, made)

Date

ca. 1850 (made)

Artist/maker

Unknown (production)

Materials and Techniques

Gold, pave-set with pearls and turquoises

Object history note

Acquired in 1855, probably from the Exposition Universelle, Paris.

Bibliographic References (Citation, Note/Abstract, NAL no)

Skelton, Robert and Mark Francis eds., Arts of Bengal, text by Robert Skelton, John Lowry, Andrew Topsfield, Veronica Murphy and Susan Stronge, London: Whitechapel Art Gallery 1979, no.216, p.73. ISBN 0 85488 047 X
Necklace
Bengal [Presidency], probably Calcutta/ first half of 19th century
Gold, three balls decorated with pave-set pearls and turquoises, linked between two canine heads. Details on heads, red and white enamel, with ruby eyes.
Acquired 1855, possibly from the Exposition Universelle, Paris.
This necklet is very close in style to the serpent necklaces and bracelets popular in early Victorian England. The incongruous placing of the head of a dog or wolf on the sinuous serpent body, represented by interlocking scales, suggests the fashion came from Europe and was adapted in India. English jewellers' catalogues were circulated in the Calcutta goldsmiths shops producing a degeneration of local styles deplored by contemporary writers.
Cf.Flower [1951] p.17-18 and fig.14b and O'Day [1974] pl.3.

Exhibition History

Arts of Bengal (Whitechapel Art Gallery 30/12/1979-30/09/2011)

Materials

Gold; Pearl; Turquoise

Categories

Jewellery

Collection code

SSEA

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Qr_O116672
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