Earring thumbnail 1
Earring thumbnail 2
Not currently on display at the V&A

Earring

1800-1850 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Earrings of this kind, with an enamelled black head wearing a white turban, are probably of Venetian origin. They were made not only in the area around Venice itself, but north to Trentino and east all around the Adriatic coast as far south as Croatia. They were often worn, by men as well as by women, as amulets. By the late 19th century this motif was also being used on brooches and tie pins. The shape of the headdress on these earrings is typical of those from Friuli.

The pearl drops may not be original. Pendants for Italian traditional earrings were often made separately, so that the plain earrings could be worn on working days, and the extravagant and sometimes fragile pendants added only on Sundays and festivals. However, these pearl pendants are of a totally different style and type of manufacture from this type of earring, which were traditionally worn without pendants.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Parts
This object consists of 2 parts.

  • Earring
  • Earring
Materials and techniques
Gold enamelled in black and white, with a pearl drop in a gold collet set with a diamond
Brief description
Pair of enamelled 'Moor's head' gold earrings with a pearl drop, Italy, 1800-1850.
Physical description
Pair of gold hoop earrings with a hinged wire and a head in black and white enamel at the front. Each has a pear-shaped pearl drop, in a gold mount set with a diamond chip, hanging loosely from the wire.
Marks and inscriptions
'ИO' in a rectangular frame. (On side of wire.)
Translation
Mark of unidentified maker. The letter 'И' may be Cyrillic, but is equally likely to be the Latin letter 'N' backwards.
Credit line
Given by Dame Joan Evans
Summary
Earrings of this kind, with an enamelled black head wearing a white turban, are probably of Venetian origin. They were made not only in the area around Venice itself, but north to Trentino and east all around the Adriatic coast as far south as Croatia. They were often worn, by men as well as by women, as amulets. By the late 19th century this motif was also being used on brooches and tie pins. The shape of the headdress on these earrings is typical of those from Friuli.

The pearl drops may not be original. Pendants for Italian traditional earrings were often made separately, so that the plain earrings could be worn on working days, and the extravagant and sometimes fragile pendants added only on Sundays and festivals. However, these pearl pendants are of a totally different style and type of manufacture from this type of earring, which were traditionally worn without pendants.
Bibliographic references
  • Gri, Gian Paolo, Cantarutti. La collezione Perusini: ori, gioielli e amuleti tradizionali Casamassima, 1997.
  • Vrtovec, Ivanka. Croatian National Jewelry. Zagreb, Graficki zavod Hrvatske, 1985.
  • Raffaelli, Umberto. Ori, Gioielli, & Amuleti. Curcu & Genovese, Trento, 2007, ISBN 978-8889898314.
Collection
Accession number
M.52&A-1962

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Record createdSeptember 9, 2005
Record URL
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