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Suit

  • Place of origin:

    England (made)

  • Date:

    1635-1640 (made)

  • Artist/Maker:

    Unknown

  • Materials and Techniques:

    Ivory satin, quilted, with applied silk braid

  • Museum number:

    347&A-1905

  • Gallery location:

    British Galleries, Room 56, The Djanogly Gallery, case 9 []

This splendid quilted doublet of the late 1630s has clearly been fashioned from another textile, probably a bed cover. Seams that do not follow the construction of the doublet and the varying directions of the quilted pattern are clues to this reuse. Nevertheless, great care was taken to incorporate the original design into the doublet in a symmetrical fashion and to show the quilting to best effect. A braid of knotted and tufted silk was added to the finished doublet and twelve large bows of silk ribbon adorn the waist.

The full knee-length breeches are typical of men’s dress of the 1630s. The doublet has a waist line slightly above the natural level, open front seams on the sleeves and bears large waist tabs, also characteristic of the period.

Physical description

Ivory satin, lined with silk and satin, quilted in a diaper and floral design with applied silk braid

Place of Origin

England (made)

Date

1635-1640 (made)

Artist/maker

Unknown

Materials and Techniques

Ivory satin, quilted, with applied silk braid

Dimensions

Height: 68.8 cm taken from BG database; needs checking, Width: 154.9 cm taken from BG database; needs checking

Descriptive line

1635c, English; Cream quilted satin, with ribbon ties at knees

1635c, English; Cream quilted satin, with ribbon points

Labels and date

Treasures of the Royal Courts: Tudors, Stuarts and the Russian Tsars label text:

Doublet and breeches
1630s

Whereas earlier styles created a fashionable silhouette with a small torso and broad padded hips, in the 1630s men’s fashion brought a more natural shape to the figure. Large bows of silk ribbon at the waistband would once have held doublet and breeches together. In this new Jacobean style, the bows are purely decorative.

England
Silk satin, quilted
V&A 347&A-1905 []

Materials

Satin

Categories

Clothing; Europeana Fashion Project; Men's clothes; Fashion

Collection

Textiles and Fashion Collection

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