Coat for a woman's riding habit of blue worsted, 1750-59, English; pale blue silk cuffs

Woman’s coat for a riding habit of medium blue worsted. It has a 1-inch (2.5 cm) standing collar, with an additional 3⅝-inch (9.2 cm), lined with pale blue silk sarsenet, sewn to the back neck and fastening at the front with 2 thread button loops on the left side and 1 corresponding cast metal (pewter?) buttons, 1 missing. The coat has long, curving, 2-piece sleeves with 3¼-inch (8.2 cm) cuffs of the silk sarsenet. There are wide skirts below the waist seam with a vertical pocket and shaped pocket flap on each front. The fronts have a deep point below the waist at centre front. The backs are cut in 1 piece with its skirts. The sleeves and bodice of the coat are lined with linen; the skirts with pale blue worsted. There is a ‘fish’ [dart] in each front edge at the level of the second buttonhole to shape over the edge of the stays that would be worn underneath. The coat fastens at centre front with 12 worked buttonholes on the left front, and 11 corresponding cast metal buttons, 1 missing. There are 3 worked button holes on each pocket flap and 2 corresponding metal buttons, 1 missing on each side.

Given by Mrs Keelan

Women’s riding outfits, known as ‘riding habits’, of the 18th century adapted elements of men’s dress. This riding coat of the 1750s is styled after a man’s coat, although it has been modified with a 'fish' or dart at the centre front and waist seam to fit over stays and a wide petticoat. A narrow straight collar attached at the back neck and buttoning in front added protection on chilly rides. The fine tailoring and plain aspect of this jacket is typical of 18th century women’s riding habits.

T.12-1957