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Ring

  • Place of origin:

    Europe (western, made)

  • Date:

    ca.1550 (made)

  • Artist/Maker:

    Unknown

  • Materials and Techniques:

    Gold, enamel, pink sapphire

  • Museum number:

    4397-1857

  • Gallery location:

    Medieval and Renaissance, room 62, case 8

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This ring is decorated with a Renaissance quatrefoil or four-petalled bezel finely decorated with black and white enamel. 'Blackwork' enamel first appeared around 1585 and remained in fashion until the 1620s. It consisted of patterns of small curved and broken scrolls against a black or white enamel ground, contrasting with the bright enamels popular earlier in the sixteenth century.
It is set with a pink sapphire. Sapphires and rubies are both varieties of the gem mineral corundum. The rich red colour of rubies is created by the presence of chromium whilst sapphires may be found in a range of colours from colourless natural corundum to yellows, pinks, greens and the most highly prized blues. The term ruby was used in this period to describe a number of red stones including garnets, spinels and pink sapphires. It is possible that the original owner of this ring believed the stone to be the highly prized ruby, a stone valued for its rarity, beauty and talismanic or magical qualities. The sixteenth century owner may have believed that a ruby would protect him or her from perils, including the loss of land and rank, as well as demonstrating his or her status and good taste.

Physical description

Ring, gold, enamelled, set with a pink sapphire. The quatrefoil bezel with sides chased as drooping petals and enamelled. The ornament comprising scrolls on a background of white opaque enamel with borders of black opaque enamel. The plain hoop terminates in scrolled shoulders decorated with black and white enamelled strapwork. The bezel is set with a large, irregularly-shaped foiled pink sapphire. The stone does not fit perfectly in the setting, and may be a replacement.

Place of Origin

Europe (western, made)

Date

ca.1550 (made)

Artist/maker

Unknown

Materials and Techniques

Gold, enamel, pink sapphire

Dimensions

Height: 1.2 cm (bezel)
Width: 2.0 cm
Depth: 2.6 cm (maximum, bezel to hoop)

Measured for the Medieval and Renaissance Galleries

Object history note

Bought in 1857 for £7 10s.

Descriptive line

Gold ring with quatrefoil bezel and double cusps, enamelled in black and white, and set with a pink sapphire. Western Europe, ca. 1550

Bibliographic References (Citation, Note/Abstract, NAL no)

Oman, C.C. Victoria and Albert Museum Catalogue of Rings 1930. Ipswich, Anglia Publishing, 1993, no.279, p.69.
Bury, Shirley, Jewellery Gallery Summary Catalogue. London, Victoria and Albert Museum, 1982, case 33, board K, no 8

Materials

Gold; Enamel; Sapphire

Techniques

Enamelling

Subjects depicted

Volutes

Categories

Jewellery; Metalwork

Collection code

MET

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Qr_O115440
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