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Bracelet

Bracelet

  • Place of origin:

    Paris (made)

  • Date:

    ca. 1850 (made)

  • Artist/Maker:

    Morel, Jean-Valentin (maker)

  • Materials and Techniques:

    Enamelled gold set with pearls

  • Credit Line:

    Cory Bequest

  • Museum number:

    M.102-1951

  • Gallery location:

    Jewellery, Rooms 91, The William and Judith Bollinger Gallery, case 54, shelf C, box 3

This bracelet reflects the peak of naturalism of the 1850s. Twigs, branches, flowers and fruits have been modelled in gold in life-like detail. They have been given realistic colours by using rich translucent enamel on engraved surfaces.

Naturalistic jewellery, decorated with clearly recognisable flowers and fruit, was popular for much of this period. These motifs first became fashionable in the early years of the century, with the widespread interest in botany and the influence of Romantic poets such as Wordsworth. By the 1850s the delicate early designs had given way to more extravagant and complex compositions of flowers and foliage.

At the same time, flowers were used to express love and friendship. The colours in nature were matched by coloured gemstones, and a ‘language of flowers’ spelt out special messages.

In contrast with earlier periods, the more elaborate jewellery was worn almost exclusively by women.

Physical description

Bracelet, enamelled gold set with pearls in the form of a branch vine.

Place of Origin

Paris (made)

Date

ca. 1850 (made)

Artist/maker

Morel, Jean-Valentin (maker)

Materials and Techniques

Enamelled gold set with pearls

Marks and inscriptions

eagle's head struck twice
Petite garantie for gold, Paris. On inside of bracelet near division between two parts.

Dimensions

Height: 6.9 cm, Width: 1.7 cm, Depth: 6.4 cm

Object history note

Isabelle Lucas has kindly pointed out the close similarity between this bracelet and the illustration of one by Jean-Valentin Morel (Art Journal, 1850, p. 292).

Descriptive line

Bracelet, enamelled gold set with pearls in the form of a branch vine, France (Paris), about 1850

Materials

Gold; Enamel; Pearl

Subjects depicted

Vines

Categories

Jewellery; Metalwork; Europeana Fashion Project

Collection

Metalwork Collection

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