Birds of all kinds were popular as a decorative theme at this period. Tunics with designs of repeating birds, probably in reality made of silks very like these, are to be seen worn by two ladies on the Empress's left in the mosaic panel with the Empress Theodora at San Vitale, Ravenna.
These fragments shown here are probably from a tunic, indicated by fold lines and traces of sewing. They are of compound twill silk, with an oriental-inspired design of small parrots in grass green with white heads and claws on a dull pink ground.
Physical description
Four irregular fragments of compound twill silk, with a design of small parrots in grass-green with white heads and claws on a dull pink ground. The parrots occur in three different postures, accompanied by two plant sprigs. The vertical axis of the design is parallel to the weft, and in this direction the same motif repeats without a break. In the direction of the warp the three different images succeed each other and on the third largest fragment appear reversed.
Weft-faced compound 1/2 twill; warp yarn of pink silk, Z-spun, 31-35 threads per cm; weft yearns of white, grass-green and pink silk without twist, 55-60 passes per cm. Some weaving faults.
Place of Origin
Turkey (possibly, made)
Egypt (discovered)
Date
ca. 6th century (made)
Artist/maker
unknown (production)
Materials and Techniques
Woven silk
Dimensions
Length: 290 mm largest fragment, Width: 150 mm largest fragment, Length: 170 mm, Width: 160 mm, Length: 120 mm, Width: 100 mm, Length: 100 mm smallest fragment, Width: 45 mm smallest fragment
Object history note
Undoubtedly found in Egypt, originally purchased from Robert Viola, Cairo, and bought by the V&A from L. Kreizman in 1949. On this silk, the drawing of the birds is more naturalistic, their bright green plumage can be seen as part of a change in taste to simple primary colours that was also oriental in inspiration.
Historical context note
Another fragment of the same silk, measuring approx. 130 x 165 mm, is in the Cleveland Museum of Art, Cleveland, Ohio (no. 50.520). Fold lines and traces of sewing on these fragments and on the piece in Cleveland indicate that they come from a tunic, from the tuck that habitually was sewn across the garment at waist-level.
Descriptive line
Four fragments of compound twill silk showing small parrots.
Labels and date
SILK and SILK MIXTURE FRAGMENTS, 4th - 7th century.
1\2 weft-faced compound twill (except 2190-1900 in 2\1 warp-faced compound twill). Warp / silk, proportion 1 main to 1 binding ( but 336-1887 has warp of \ linen/ plied and 2190-1900 warp in silk of 2 colours; 1 pick of each in turn (336-1887 and 2098-1900 has weft of blue \ plied linen). Vertical axis of pattern at right angles to warp (except 2098-1900, 2201c-1900 and T. 93-1937). Apart from the fragmentary silk depicting David in the lions' den (T.93-1937) which comes from a church in the Rhineland, all are from unrecorded sites in Egypt.
Production Note
Woven in the Eastern Mediterranean area, probably Byzantine, but undoubtedly found in Egypt.
Materials
Silk
Techniques
Patterned weave
Subjects depicted
Parrot
Categories
Archaeology; Textiles; Clothing
Collection code
T&D
