Earring thumbnail 1
Image of Gallery in South Kensington
On display at V&A South Kensington
Jewellery, Rooms 91, The William and Judith Bollinger Gallery

Earring

ca. 1860-1870 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

The colour of the chrysoprases has been enhanced with green material behind the stones in their settings. Made for export to the East with a crescent shape at the bottom of the drop.

Gold, in a variety of treatments, became a dominant element in jewellery from the 1820s. It was used successfully in mesh necklaces and bracelets, gold chain and wire work, also as a foil to gemstones.

The technique of filigree with spirals and granules (cannetille and grainti) was revived in France then copied in England. Jewellers liked the economical use of gold and women appreciated the intricacy of the style.

Coloured golds were also popular. In gold alloy more copper gives a redder gold, while extra zinc or zinc and silver will result in a pale yellow gold.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Parts
This object consists of 2 parts.

  • Earring
  • Earring
Materials and techniques
Gold openwork, set with chrysoprases
Brief description
Gold openwork set with chrysoprases, France, about 1860-70
Physical description
Pair of earrings, gold openwork set with chrysoprases.
Credit line
Bequeathed by Mr John George Joicey
Summary
The colour of the chrysoprases has been enhanced with green material behind the stones in their settings. Made for export to the East with a crescent shape at the bottom of the drop.

Gold, in a variety of treatments, became a dominant element in jewellery from the 1820s. It was used successfully in mesh necklaces and bracelets, gold chain and wire work, also as a foil to gemstones.

The technique of filigree with spirals and granules (cannetille and grainti) was revived in France then copied in England. Jewellers liked the economical use of gold and women appreciated the intricacy of the style.

Coloured golds were also popular. In gold alloy more copper gives a redder gold, while extra zinc or zinc and silver will result in a pale yellow gold.
Bibliographic reference
Shirley Bury, Jewellery 1789-1910, The International Era, Woodbridge, The AAntique Collectors' Club, 1991, Vol. 1. p.397, plate 214 ISBN. 18514910X
Collection
Accession number
M.266&A-1919

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Record createdAugust 15, 2005
Record URL
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