Not on display

Head Ornament

first half 19th century (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

This Indian hair ornament is made of coiling elements of gold set with rubies, emeralds and diamonds, and has a central section of gold set with rubies and emeralds, from which hang nine strings of seed pearls, each ending with a small pendant in the form of a floret set with a single diamond and two rubies. It was bought by the Indian Museum in 1855, almost certainly from an exhibition which may have been the Paris Exposition Universelle of that year, and was presumably made not long before. It was transferred to the South Kensington Museum, later renamed the Victoria and Albert Museum, in 1879. The form is extremely unusual, but was identified as the traditional form called "jhapta", or "jhumka" when reproduced in a book by Zulekha Haque, Gahana. Jewellery of Bangladesh, Bangladesh Small & Cottage Industries Corporation, Dhaka, 1984, fig. 65 and p. 48).

Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Gold set with diamonds, emeralds and pearls
Brief description
spiral bands; Jewellery, gold pearls rubies diam's emer's,Bengal
Physical description
The middle pendant ('sinthi') is styled in a floral pattern of gold and stone setting with diamonds, emeralds and rubies. Nine strings of seed pearls and rubies hang from the centre piece and each string is terminated with a smaller butterfly shaped pendant of gold and stone setting with diamond, rubies and seed pearl drops. The two side bands are linked with the middle pendant by two strings of seed pearls and rubies. The gold side bands are spiral shaped but each terminating in a serpent's head and set with diamonds, emeralds, pearls and rubies and each has a floral piece in gold setting. The side bands are designed to wrap round locks of hair and to hang on each side of face close to the ear.
Dimensions
  • Side pendants length: 23cm
Length of side pendants
Object history
Acquired in 1855, probably from the Exposition Universelle, Paris

Summary
This Indian hair ornament is made of coiling elements of gold set with rubies, emeralds and diamonds, and has a central section of gold set with rubies and emeralds, from which hang nine strings of seed pearls, each ending with a small pendant in the form of a floret set with a single diamond and two rubies. It was bought by the Indian Museum in 1855, almost certainly from an exhibition which may have been the Paris Exposition Universelle of that year, and was presumably made not long before. It was transferred to the South Kensington Museum, later renamed the Victoria and Albert Museum, in 1879. The form is extremely unusual, but was identified as the traditional form called "jhapta", or "jhumka" when reproduced in a book by Zulekha Haque, Gahana. Jewellery of Bangladesh, Bangladesh Small & Cottage Industries Corporation, Dhaka, 1984, fig. 65 and p. 48).
Bibliographic references
  • Susan Stronge, Nima Smith, and J.C. Harle. A Golden Treasury : Jewellery from the Indian Subcontinent London : Victoria and Albert Museum in association with Mapin Publishing, Ahmedabad, 1988. p.59
  • India's fabled city : the art of courtly Lucknow / Stephen Markel with Tushara Bindu Gude ; and contributions by Muzaffar Alam ... [et al.]. Munich ;London: Prestel, Johann Gottlieb, c2010 Number: 9783791350752 (hbk.), 3791350757 (hbk.) cat. no. 191, p. 47.
  • Arts of Bengal : the heritage of Bangladesh and eastern India : an exhibition organized by the Whitechapel Art Gallery in collaboration with the Victoria and Albert Museum : 9 November-30 December 1979, Whitechapel Art Gallery ..., 12 January-17 February 1980, Manchester City Art Gallery ... . [London]: Whitechapel Art Gallery, [1979] Number: 085488047X (pbk.) : p.73
  • Journal of Indian Art and Industry No.103, pl.106, fig.740
Collection
Accession number
03209(IS)

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Record createdAugust 10, 2005
Record URL
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