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Dress

ca. 1925 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

This dress was made by the House of Myrbor in about 1925. The T-shaped dress has a round neckline and tubular mid-length sleeves. Multicoloured abstract shapes are appliquéd on the sleeves.

This dress might have been designed by Natalia Goncharova, a Russian artist who emigrated to Paris after the Bolshevik Revolution. Natalia Goncharova (1881-1962) had a long career with Sergei Diaghilev's Ballets Russes. She produced astonishing costumes that were inspired by her Russian background and her work as an avant-garde artist. Like many Russian refugees in Paris, she also designed dresses. These strongly reflected her work for Diaghilev. Between 1922 and 1926, she worked for the Maison Myrbor (House of Myrbor). This exclusive shop was owned by the French Marie Cuttoli. It sold fashion, rugs and curtains designed by the international avant-garde.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Hand-sewn silk, appliquéd with silk, velvet and lamé
Brief description
Dress made of hand-sewn silk and appliquéd with silk, velvet and lamé, possibly designed by Natalia Goncharova, probably for Marie Cuttoli, retailed by House of Myrbor, Paris, ca. 1925
Physical description
Knee-length and T-shaped day dress made of hand-sewn ivory silk and with wide square sleeves appliquéd with multicoloured silk, velvet and lamé. The dress has a low round neckline and tubular mid-length sleeves. The low-set waist is shaped slightly with two thread loops, and has two self-covered buttons at the sides. Straight cut.
Style
Production typeHaute couture
Marks and inscriptions
'PARIS 17, RUE VIGNON MYRBOR DEAUVILLE' (Name tape inside the side seam)
Object history
This dress was worn by Miss Emilie Grigsby (1876-1964) who was a wealthy independent American who came to England from New York. She established a salon which was frequented by writers and the military. She was considered to be one of the great international beauties, with extremely pale, almost transparent skin and golden hair. She was frequently the subject of articles in the New York Times during the early 20th century. Her clothes were purchased from couturiers in London, Paris, and New York, and demonstrated an elegantly avant-garde approach to style.

At the time of acquisition, Miss Grigsby's friend, Miss Chisholm said that the patchwork on this dress was similar to the work of Madame Coutoli, who had workshops in Algeria.
Production
Silk label, left inside seam reads "MyRBoR, PARIS 17.R.Vignon, DEAUVILLE"
Summary
This dress was made by the House of Myrbor in about 1925. The T-shaped dress has a round neckline and tubular mid-length sleeves. Multicoloured abstract shapes are appliquéd on the sleeves.

This dress might have been designed by Natalia Goncharova, a Russian artist who emigrated to Paris after the Bolshevik Revolution. Natalia Goncharova (1881-1962) had a long career with Sergei Diaghilev's Ballets Russes. She produced astonishing costumes that were inspired by her Russian background and her work as an avant-garde artist. Like many Russian refugees in Paris, she also designed dresses. These strongly reflected her work for Diaghilev. Between 1922 and 1926, she worked for the Maison Myrbor (House of Myrbor). This exclusive shop was owned by the French Marie Cuttoli. It sold fashion, rugs and curtains designed by the international avant-garde.
Collection
Accession number
T.158-1967

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Record createdAugust 9, 2005
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