Pendant
17th century (made)
Artist/Maker | |
Place of origin |
In the Middle Ages, German workers had a high reputation throughout Europe for their craft skills. Rulers in many countries encouraged them to immigrate, by offering freedom of religion, and legal and tax privileges. These German immigrants usually kept their own distinctive costumes.
The most conspicuous part of the dress of Saxon women in Transylvania was a large circular piece of jewellery, called a Heftel. Originally it was just a simple clasp, used to fasten the bodice. By the 17th century it had developed into a huge pendant, still worn in the same position, but now supported by a velvet band round the neck. Unlike much traditional jewellery, the stones in these pieces are often genuine gems, rather than coloured glass. The Heftel was intended to show the wealth of its owner, as well as her ethnic identity.
This Heftel is designed in Medieval style, with saints in the centre, under Gothic canopies, and hunting scenes round the borders. It was probably made in the late 17th century, although the maker's mark cannot be identified. By that time most of the Transylvanian Saxons had converted to Protestantism, but their conservative tastes preserved the old Catholic style of jewellery.
The most conspicuous part of the dress of Saxon women in Transylvania was a large circular piece of jewellery, called a Heftel. Originally it was just a simple clasp, used to fasten the bodice. By the 17th century it had developed into a huge pendant, still worn in the same position, but now supported by a velvet band round the neck. Unlike much traditional jewellery, the stones in these pieces are often genuine gems, rather than coloured glass. The Heftel was intended to show the wealth of its owner, as well as her ethnic identity.
This Heftel is designed in Medieval style, with saints in the centre, under Gothic canopies, and hunting scenes round the borders. It was probably made in the late 17th century, although the maker's mark cannot be identified. By that time most of the Transylvanian Saxons had converted to Protestantism, but their conservative tastes preserved the old Catholic style of jewellery.
Object details
Categories | |
Object type | |
Materials and techniques | Silver-gilt set with turquoises, pearls, garnets and pastes |
Brief description | Silver-gilt pendant (Heftel), set with coloured stones and decorated with figures of saints, Transylvania (Romania), 17th century. |
Physical description | Large circular pendant with scalloped rim, decorated with applied open-work plaques of hunting scenes round the border, and with cast figures of the Virgin and Child, St. Peter and a female saint under gothic canopies in the centre. Set with turquoises, pearls, garnets and pastes. Broad hook at the back with bolt fastening. |
Dimensions |
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Marks and inscriptions | 'FS' with a comet in a shield-shaped frame (On flat of hook, at back.)
|
Production | Worn by women of German descent |
Subjects depicted | |
Summary | In the Middle Ages, German workers had a high reputation throughout Europe for their craft skills. Rulers in many countries encouraged them to immigrate, by offering freedom of religion, and legal and tax privileges. These German immigrants usually kept their own distinctive costumes. The most conspicuous part of the dress of Saxon women in Transylvania was a large circular piece of jewellery, called a Heftel. Originally it was just a simple clasp, used to fasten the bodice. By the 17th century it had developed into a huge pendant, still worn in the same position, but now supported by a velvet band round the neck. Unlike much traditional jewellery, the stones in these pieces are often genuine gems, rather than coloured glass. The Heftel was intended to show the wealth of its owner, as well as her ethnic identity. This Heftel is designed in Medieval style, with saints in the centre, under Gothic canopies, and hunting scenes round the borders. It was probably made in the late 17th century, although the maker's mark cannot be identified. By that time most of the Transylvanian Saxons had converted to Protestantism, but their conservative tastes preserved the old Catholic style of jewellery. |
Collection | |
Accession number | M.63-1943 |
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Record created | August 4, 2005 |
Record URL |
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