Shoe Buckle
ca. 1795 (made)
| Artist/Maker | |
| Place of origin |
Gold or silver buckles for shoes were in fashion for most of the 18th century. They gave the finishing touches to elegant dress and were one of the few pieces of jewellery worn by men as well as women.
Making buckles became a highly skilled craft at which English silversmiths and jewellers excelled. Exquisitely wrought designs, glittering pastes and precious stones reflected the status of the wearer as well as the occasion. Cheaper and plainer versions were made of steel, brass and other metal alloys. Gentlemen wore matching shoe and knee buckles. By 1790 shoe buckles were falling out of use, except as part of ceremonial or court dress.
This buckle is one of a pair, with Museum no. M.30A-1909. It features bright-cutting – a method of engraving popular in the late 18th century whereby shallow curved grooves were cut with sides of varying steepness to create facets that give a reflective, sparkling effect.
Making buckles became a highly skilled craft at which English silversmiths and jewellers excelled. Exquisitely wrought designs, glittering pastes and precious stones reflected the status of the wearer as well as the occasion. Cheaper and plainer versions were made of steel, brass and other metal alloys. Gentlemen wore matching shoe and knee buckles. By 1790 shoe buckles were falling out of use, except as part of ceremonial or court dress.
This buckle is one of a pair, with Museum no. M.30A-1909. It features bright-cutting – a method of engraving popular in the late 18th century whereby shallow curved grooves were cut with sides of varying steepness to create facets that give a reflective, sparkling effect.
Object details
| Categories | |
| Object type | |
| Materials and techniques | Silver, bright-cut and milled, with steel |
| Brief description | Silver, London, about 1795, possibly made by Thomas Kirkham, (one of a pair). |
| Physical description | Shoe buckle, (one of a pair) silver with steel prong, oblong with rounded corners, openwork design of interlacing stems of flowers and faceted pellet rim, the surface bright-cut and milled. |
| Dimensions |
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| Marks and inscriptions |
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| Object history | Maker's mark: 'TK', perhaps for Thomas Kirkham, London. Thomas Krikham is listed in Jewellery Handlist as a possible maker but not listed in Grimwade except in the Buckle maker's list. |
| Subject depicted | |
| Summary | Gold or silver buckles for shoes were in fashion for most of the 18th century. They gave the finishing touches to elegant dress and were one of the few pieces of jewellery worn by men as well as women. Making buckles became a highly skilled craft at which English silversmiths and jewellers excelled. Exquisitely wrought designs, glittering pastes and precious stones reflected the status of the wearer as well as the occasion. Cheaper and plainer versions were made of steel, brass and other metal alloys. Gentlemen wore matching shoe and knee buckles. By 1790 shoe buckles were falling out of use, except as part of ceremonial or court dress. This buckle is one of a pair, with Museum no. M.30A-1909. It features bright-cutting – a method of engraving popular in the late 18th century whereby shallow curved grooves were cut with sides of varying steepness to create facets that give a reflective, sparkling effect. |
| Associated object | |
| Collection | |
| Accession number | M.30-1909 |
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| Record created | June 9, 2005 |
| Record URL |
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