Ensemble thumbnail 1
Ensemble thumbnail 2
Not currently on display at the V&A

Ensemble

1984 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Leigh Bowery was most recognised as a London-based performance artist, whose performances addressed preconceptions of gender, sexual identity and the creation of self image. While he did not call himself a fashion designer, it is one of the capacities in which he first became known.

This outfit dates from the period when Bowery was still 'designing clothes' rather than when he was solely focused on his own creations for performance. It is likely that the ensemble was the only one made or is one of only a handful to survive. The ensemble was modelled in 1984 at a fashion show in Tokyo, organised by club personality Susanne Bartsch to promote new London fashion talent. This outfit, which could be worn by a man or woman, features floral and snake-skin prints and ruffles. These details lend themselves to fantasy and deliberate gender confusion, characteristics of much of Bowery's work.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Parts
This object consists of 3 parts.

  • Jacket
  • Trousers
  • Top
Brief description
Ensemble of jacket, top and trousers, in white nylon with printed cotton trim, Leigh Bowery, Britain, 1984.
Production typeUnique
Credit line
Purchased with support from a generous individual
Production
Attribution note: Ensemble made specifically for a catwalk show of London fashion in Tokyo, 1984.
Subject depicted
Summary
Leigh Bowery was most recognised as a London-based performance artist, whose performances addressed preconceptions of gender, sexual identity and the creation of self image. While he did not call himself a fashion designer, it is one of the capacities in which he first became known.

This outfit dates from the period when Bowery was still 'designing clothes' rather than when he was solely focused on his own creations for performance. It is likely that the ensemble was the only one made or is one of only a handful to survive. The ensemble was modelled in 1984 at a fashion show in Tokyo, organised by club personality Susanne Bartsch to promote new London fashion talent. This outfit, which could be worn by a man or woman, features floral and snake-skin prints and ruffles. These details lend themselves to fantasy and deliberate gender confusion, characteristics of much of Bowery's work.
Collection
Accession number
T.63:1 to 3-2009

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Record createdJuly 1, 2009
Record URL
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