Textile Panel
1770-1800 (Made), 1820-1840 (restored)
Artist/Maker | |
Place of origin |
Plain weave cotton embroidered with silk in surface darning on the diagonal and running stitch, backed with roller-printed plain weave cotton and faced with bias-cut woven silk. Much of the ground has been re-worked in tambour stitch. This means that the backing was not in place while the tambour stitch was worked; it is probable that the roller printed cottons are of a later date.
The black ground has diagonal lines of four-pointed stars each containing a swastika with a diamond centre. The colours of the lines alternate. From lower left to upper right: [1] blue star with white swastika and dark red star with white swastika; [2] pink star with dark blue swastika and orange star with cream swastika. The border is a blue ground with a line of pink cartouches and dark red octagonal stars. The backing consists of two pieces of roller-printed cotton. The larger section has a white ground almost entirely covered with grey leaves with small dark red flower heads. The smaller piece also has a white ground, with tiny flower heads with red centres, and dark purple leaves and purple coral-like patterns.
The facing is in striped woven silk: [a] white ground with two types of small floral sprig in pink and green [b] red ground with two different small floral sprigs in green. There are narrow yellow and green stripes between [a] and [b].
Colours (Embroidery threads, 2S silk): orange, blue, dark blue, dark red, pink, black, white, cream and possibly other shades of off-white; (Backing): white, grey, red, dark red, purple; (Facing): white, pink, green, red, yellow.
The black ground has diagonal lines of four-pointed stars each containing a swastika with a diamond centre. The colours of the lines alternate. From lower left to upper right: [1] blue star with white swastika and dark red star with white swastika; [2] pink star with dark blue swastika and orange star with cream swastika. The border is a blue ground with a line of pink cartouches and dark red octagonal stars. The backing consists of two pieces of roller-printed cotton. The larger section has a white ground almost entirely covered with grey leaves with small dark red flower heads. The smaller piece also has a white ground, with tiny flower heads with red centres, and dark purple leaves and purple coral-like patterns.
The facing is in striped woven silk: [a] white ground with two types of small floral sprig in pink and green [b] red ground with two different small floral sprigs in green. There are narrow yellow and green stripes between [a] and [b].
Colours (Embroidery threads, 2S silk): orange, blue, dark blue, dark red, pink, black, white, cream and possibly other shades of off-white; (Backing): white, grey, red, dark red, purple; (Facing): white, pink, green, red, yellow.
Object details
Category | |
Object type | |
Materials and techniques | Cotton yarn, silk thread, weaving, roller-printing, embroidering, sewing |
Brief description | Middle East, Textile; Panel, silk-embroidered cotton, packed design of four-armed swastikas in diagonal stripe formation against black ground, Azerbaijan or NW Iran, possibly 1770-1800 |
Physical description | Plain weave cotton embroidered with silk in surface darning on the diagonal and running stitch, backed with roller-printed plain weave cotton and faced with bias-cut woven silk. Much of the ground has been re-worked in tambour stitch. This means that the backing was not in place while the tambour stitch was worked; it is probable that the roller printed cottons are of a later date. The black ground has diagonal lines of four-pointed stars each containing a swastika with a diamond centre. The colours of the lines alternate. From lower left to upper right: [1] blue star with white swastika and dark red star with white swastika; [2] pink star with dark blue swastika and orange star with cream swastika. The border is a blue ground with a line of pink cartouches and dark red octagonal stars. The backing consists of two pieces of roller-printed cotton. The larger section has a white ground almost entirely covered with grey leaves with small dark red flower heads. The smaller piece also has a white ground, with tiny flower heads with red centres, and dark purple leaves and purple coral-like patterns. The facing is in striped woven silk: [a] white ground with two types of small floral sprig in pink and green [b] red ground with two different small floral sprigs in green. There are narrow yellow and green stripes between [a] and [b]. Colours (Embroidery threads, 2S silk): orange, blue, dark blue, dark red, pink, black, white, cream and possibly other shades of off-white; (Backing): white, grey, red, dark red, purple; (Facing): white, pink, green, red, yellow. |
Dimensions |
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Style | |
Credit line | Given by Sir Frank Brangwyn RA |
Production | This embroidery belongs to Group 3 as described by Jennifer Wearden, 'Azerbaijanian Embroideries: A Synthesis of Contrasts', Hali 59 (1991) pp. 102-111. Group 3 textiles are characterised by surface darning on the diagonal and date from the middle of the 18th century into the early part of the 19th century. A similar piece, catalogued as 17th/18th century, is Inv. No. 15-420 in the Iparmuveszeti Muzeum, Budapest. It was published by Zsuzsa Gombos in 'Azerbaijan', Hali 26 (April 1985) pp.26-29. |
Bibliographic reference | |
Collection | |
Accession number | T.50-1940 |
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Record created | May 19, 1999 |
Record URL |
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