Jacket
- Place of origin:
- Date:
1610-1615 (made)
1620 (altered)
- Artist/Maker:
- Materials and Techniques:
Linen, embroidered with coloured silks, silver and silver-gilt thread
- Credit Line:
Purchased with the assistance of the National Heritage Memorial Fund and The Art Fund
- Museum number:
- Gallery location:
- Order this image
Object Type
This fine early 17th-century woman's jacket is particularly significant because it is shown being worn in the Portrait of Margaret Layton (museum no. E.214-1994), attributed to Marcus Gheeraerts the Younger (1561-1636) and displayed alongside it.
Ownership & Use
Margaret Laton or Margaret Layton – What's in a name? When the V&A acquired the jacket and portrait of Margaret Layton in 1994, we used the version ‘Laton’ following the example set in 1933 by V&A curator Albert Kendrick. However, according to documents and monuments of the Layton family in Rawdon, Yorkshire, and the Dictionary of National Biography, the name was always spelled with a ‘y’. We are now making corrections in V&A labels, brochures, publications and on the V&A website.
In the portrait, Margaret Layton wears the jacket with an Italian needlelace collar and cuffs, a black velvet gown, a red silk petticoat and a whitework apron. As with many women of this period, we know very little about her life, other than her recorded connections to her father and husband.
Materials & Making
The jacket has long, tight sleeves, narrow shoulder wings, semi-circular cuffs and a small curved collar at the back neck, dating it to about 1610. Made of linen, it is hand sewn and lined with coral silk taffeta. Originally the jacket was fastened with pink silk ribbons. In the 1620s, an edging of spangled silver-gilt bobbin lace was added. The ribbons were removed and probably replaced with hooks and eyes, which have not survived. The jacket is embroidered in plain and fancy detached buttonhole, stem, plaited braid, chain, long and short and Roumanian stitches, with spider knots and speckling, partially padded, and with spangles.
Time
Although the jacket was made about 1610, the portrait was painted more than 10 years later. By this time, waistlines had risen. Margaret Layton adapted to the new style by raising her petticoat and covering the lower half of the jacket.
Physical description
A jacket with long, close-fitting sleeves, narrow shoulder wings, semi-circular cuffs and a small curved collar at the back neck. The bodice is cut in three pieces: two front side pieces and one back panel with five gores inserted at the lower edge to give ease over the hips. The sleeves are cut in two pieces with a slit at the wrist. The whole garment is lined with coral silk taffeta.
The whole garment is embroidered in an all over pattern of scrolling vines in silver-gilt plaited braid stitch from which spring a variety of flowers, fruits and insects worked in coloured silks and silver-gilt thread. In the 1620s, an edging of spangled silver-gilt bobbin lace was added. The original fastenings of pink silk ribbon were removed and probably replaced with hooks and eyes, which have not survived.
Embroidered in plain and fancy detached buttonhole, stem, plaited braid, chain, long and short and Roumanian stitches, with spider knots and speckling, partially padded, and with spangles.
Place of Origin
England
Date
1610-1615 (made)
1620 (altered)
Artist/maker
Unknown
Materials and Techniques
Linen, embroidered with coloured silks, silver and silver-gilt thread
Dimensions
Length: 51 cm (back of neck to waist)
Width: 60 cm (display)
Circumference: 79.5 cm (chest)
Dimensions checked: Measured; 16/02/2001 by KB
display dims as currently mounted - tally with Avril Hart's dimensions taken in 1998, apart from height, changed from 79 by KB to represent more likely h of headless stockman. n.b. other dimensions seemed rather generous when measured by KB, but dependent on padding so not changed on db.
Object history note
This jacket was owned and worn by Margaret Layton (probably born about 1590, died 1641), wife of Francis Layton (born 1577, died 1661), Yeoman of the Jewel House during the reign of James I, Charles I and Charles II. An portrait by an unknown artist, dating from the 1620s, shows Margaret Layton wearing this bodice.
When the V&A acquired the jacket and portrait of Margaret Layton in 1994, the version ‘Laton’ was used following the example set in 1933 by V&A curator Albert Kendrick. However, according to documents and monuments of the Layton family in Rawdon, Yorkshire, and the Dictionary of National Biography, the name was always spelled with a ‘y’.
Historical context note
This jacket is a fine example of the type of garment worn for formal day wear for Englishwomen of the late 16th and early 17th century. In the portrait, the jacket is worn with an Italian needlelace collar and cuffs, a black velvet gown, a red silk petticoat and a whitework apron. The embroidery pattern is typically English of the late 16th and early 17th century featuring a variety of plants, flowers, birds and insects based on images in pattern books, herbals and emblem books.
Descriptive line
The Layton Jacket
Labels and date
British Galleries:
This jacket is an example of formal daywear worn by wealthy Englishwomen in the early 17th century. The embroidery is based on designs from pattern books, herbals and emblem books. It is of a very high quality and probably professional work. Although this one was luxurious, a jacket of this type would not have been the most formal or expensive garment in Margaret Laton's wardrobe.
Materials
Silk; Silk thread; Linen; Silver gilt; Bobbin lace; Spangle
Techniques
Embroidery; Hand sewing
Subjects depicted
Birds; Grapes; Butterfly; Carnations; Roses; Honeysuckle; Cornflower; Pansy; Strawberry; Borage; Foxglove
Categories
Clothing
Production Type and Product Note
Unique
Collection code
T&D
