Handkerchief thumbnail 1
Handkerchief thumbnail 2
+2
images
Not on display

Handkerchief

1600-1630 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Object Type
Handkerchiefs made of plain linen served the same function they do today, but if they were decorated they could also be carried purely as fashionable accessories and given as gifts. Amongst the textiles listed in the inventory taken on Henry VIII's death in 1547 were 15 dozen 'handkerchers garnished with golde and siluer and gold [sic] of all sortes'.

Materials & Making
The embroidery on the handkerchief is worked in double running stitch. This is a double-sided stitch, creating identical patterns on the front and back of the ground fabric. For this reason it was considered suitable for clothing and accessories that might be seen from both sides, like collars and cuffs that were turned back, or handkerchiefs. The metal lace and tassels add to the showy effect of the embroidery. Their weight would have made the handkerchief drape gracefully.

Design & Designing
The decoration of this handkerchief was chosen to complement the imported Italian silks with small repeating motifs that were used for both men's and women's dress. The freedom an embroiderer has to introduce variety among motifs has been suppressed in this case in favour of perfect regularity, as if the design were created on the loom.

Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Embroidered linen with silks, bobbin lace worked in silver and silver-gilt threads
Brief description
Handkerchief of embroidered linen with silks, and bordered with bobbin lace, England, 1600-1630
Physical description
Handkerchief of embroidered linen with silks, and bordered with bobbin lace worked in silver and silver-gilt threads. Thread count approx. 50 threads per cm. balanced plain weave. With five rows of small S-shaped motifs worked with pale green and yellow silk in Holbein stitch forms a border of 2 inches and edged with the lace. Gold thread at the four corners.
Dimensions
  • Height: 39.5cm
  • Width: 39.5cm
Dimensions checked: measured; 01/04/1999 by DW Approx. 42cm square, including tassels at corners
Gallery label
(27/03/2003)
British Galleries:
Handkerchiefs were ornamental rather than practical, as illustrated in the portrait alongside, showing Anne Cecil, later Countess of Stamford. The embroidery was inspired by Italian silks imported to England at the beginning of the 17th century. The colouring and design of leaning 'S' motifs echo those of Italian dress silks.
Object history
A manuscript page came with the handkerchief (now attached to NF for vendor Mrs W E Mortimer) with this text in three different hands :
The work of Queen Elizabeth the covering to her Bible Given by Queen Ann to Mrs Cooper who was one of the Ladies of the Bedchamber, her son Page to the Duke of Glocester, was Mrs Halford first Husband, Mrs Halford gave it to Mrs E Hodgshon who gave it to Margaretta Pigot
(new hand)When Margaretta Pigot died (in March 1830) this came into the possession of Elizabeth B Pigot
(new hand) afterwards left by her niece Elizabeth Becher Payne in 1866 Dec.11th who left it to her daughter Elizabeth Ann Gardiner Nov.1st 1884
Summary
Object Type
Handkerchiefs made of plain linen served the same function they do today, but if they were decorated they could also be carried purely as fashionable accessories and given as gifts. Amongst the textiles listed in the inventory taken on Henry VIII's death in 1547 were 15 dozen 'handkerchers garnished with golde and siluer and gold [sic] of all sortes'.

Materials & Making
The embroidery on the handkerchief is worked in double running stitch. This is a double-sided stitch, creating identical patterns on the front and back of the ground fabric. For this reason it was considered suitable for clothing and accessories that might be seen from both sides, like collars and cuffs that were turned back, or handkerchiefs. The metal lace and tassels add to the showy effect of the embroidery. Their weight would have made the handkerchief drape gracefully.

Design & Designing
The decoration of this handkerchief was chosen to complement the imported Italian silks with small repeating motifs that were used for both men's and women's dress. The freedom an embroiderer has to introduce variety among motifs has been suppressed in this case in favour of perfect regularity, as if the design were created on the loom.
Collection
Accession number
T.99-1954

About this object record

Explore the Collections contains over a million catalogue records, and over half a million images. It is a working database that includes information compiled over the life of the museum. Some of our records may contain offensive and discriminatory language, or reflect outdated ideas, practice and analysis. We are committed to addressing these issues, and to review and update our records accordingly.

You can write to us to suggest improvements to the record.

Suggest feedback

Record createdMay 12, 1999
Record URL
Download as: JSONIIIF Manifest