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Doublet

Doublet

  • Place of origin:

    England, Great Britain (made)

  • Date:

    1615-1620 (made)

  • Artist/Maker:

    Unknown (production)

  • Materials and Techniques:

    Watered wool, silk taffeta, linen, whalebone, hand sewn with silk and linen threads, with a silver-gilt and a silver-gilt and silk braid

  • Credit Line:

    Given by Lady Spickernell

  • Museum number:

    T.147-1937

  • Gallery location:

    In Storage

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This example of formal daywear for a gentleman or wealthy man dates from about 1615–20. Made of fine watered wool and embellished with braid, the doublet was probably not grand enough for court, but worn for formal public occasions. The close-fitting sleeves are typical of the period and the doublet reflects the new high-waisted style for men. Shoulder wings and waist tabs are stylistic details characteristic of doublets in the early 17th century.

Physical description

A reddish brown watered wool doublet with high collar, shoulder wings and long, narrow-fitting sleeves. The waist is several inches above the natural level at the back and sides, curving to a low point at the centre front. There are nine waist tabs. One to three lines of narrow silver-gilt braid have been applied to the edges and seams of the garment. The original salmon pink taffeta lining has been covered over later with beige ribbed silk; the interlining is made of linen. The belly-pieces reinforcing the lower front edges are stiffened, probably with whalebone. An interior lacing band of linen covered with silk bears 47 eyelets reinforced with stitching. The doublet fastens down the front with 35 buttons on the body and 4 silver-gilt and silk braid loops; the 39 original buttons are missing. Each sleeve has 9 buttonholes at the wrist – all buttons now missing. Seven modern hooks and eyes have been attached to the belly piece for display purposes Buttonhole loops worked in brown silk parallel to the lower waist seam on each side of the front probably served to hold the sword belt in place.

Place of Origin

England, Great Britain (made)

Date

1615-1620 (made)

Artist/maker

Unknown (production)

Materials and Techniques

Watered wool, silk taffeta, linen, whalebone, hand sewn with silk and linen threads, with a silver-gilt and a silver-gilt and silk braid

Dimensions

Length: 65.5 cm overall, Circumference: 97.4 cm waist

Object history note

Given by Lady Spickernell in 1937 and said to have belonged originally to the Cotton Family of Etwall Hall in Derbyshire.

Descriptive line

Watered wool doublet, made in England, 1615-1620.

Materials

Wool; Linen; Silk thread; Linen thread; Silk taffeta; Whalebone

Techniques

Hand sewing

Categories

Fashion

Production Type

Unique

Collection code

T&F

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Qr_O110581
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