Man's doublet, 1615-20, English; Brown watered worsted with silver-gilt woven lace

A man’s doublet of reddish brown watered worsted, interlined with linen and linen with carnation silk taffeta. It has a 3½-inch (8.7 cm) high collar, 2-inch (5 cm) deep shoulder wings, curving 2-piece sleeves and 9 laps. The waist is several inches above the natural level at the back and sides, curving to a low point at the centre front. A ⅜-inch (4 mm) wide woven lace of silver-gilt file, in parallel rows of 3, covers the seams and decorates the collar, shoulder wings and laps. The fronts are reinforced with belly pieces. An interior lacing band of linen covered with carnation silk bears 47 worked eyelets. The doublet fastens with 9 buttonholes on each sleeve and 35 on the left front with 4 lacing loops of braided brown silk and silver-gilt, and one of the woven lace on the collar; no buttons on remain. Buttonhole loops worked in brown silk parallel to the lower waist seam on each side of the front probably held ribbons to tie the sword belt in place.

The carnation silk lining appears to have worn or been cut away. The doublet has been relined with beige ribbed silk.

Given by Lady Spickernell

Given by Lady Spickernell in 1937 and said to have belonged originally to the Cotton Family of Etwall Hall in Derbyshire.

This example of formal daywear for a gentleman or wealthy man dates from about 1615–20. Made of fine watered worsted and embellished with a silver-gilt woven lace (braid), the doublet was probably not grand enough for court, but worn for formal public occasions. The close-fitting sleeves are typical of the period and the doublet reflects the new high-waisted style for men. Shoulder wings and the laps below the waist are stylistic details characteristic of doublets in the early 17th century.

T.147-1937